Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Old Settler - West Buttess 9/13/2009

Recommended Posts

Trip: Old Settler - West Buttess


Date: 9/13/2009


Trip Report:


When I saw the weather forecast calling for sunny skies on the weekend I immediately began thinking of hard climbs do go and do, then it dawned on me that my girlfriend, Tamara, had only made one foray into the alpine this year and it had ended six pitches up when our rope was chopped by a falling rock. I figured I should take here on a nice alpine trip before the weather started to turn for the worse. I had climbed the west buttress of Old Settler previously and knew it was well worth repeating. It is about 10-12 pitches in length but never exceeding easy 5th class (perfect for scrambling), has a short approach and phenomenal rock!

I called up my friend Matt and he liked the idea so at 7:00 on Saturday morning he picked us up in Agassiz and off we went. Some time was wasted searching for my helmet (which was never found) but we reached the start of the approach at about 8:45 and were off by 9:00.

An hour and a half of overgrown road walking and some bushwacking brought us to Daiphy lake below the Settler. After some chilling att he lake we hiked up to the base of the buttress. WE switched to rock shoes and started climbing. The rock is awesome and the climbing is exposed and fun! After an hour and a half of simul soloingwe reached the summit (south summit) and chilled for a while. The descent is traighforward and easy with some 4th class down climbing and lots of easy talus hiking back tot he lake. Tamara's boots self destructed on the descent and the soles came right off making the hike out a bit painful for her feet but she is a trooper and managed just fine. The hike down was uneventful other than a nose bledd (stopped with a sock) and some angry wasps (no one got stung) and were back at he car 8 hours after starting. This climb always keeps a smile on your face! Highly reccommended!




































Gear Notes:

Rock Shoes.


Approach Notes:

Drive up Talc Creek from Harrison East FSR. Easy approach, take the right side of the bowl to the lake.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

East 5th? Exposed? Casual descent? Sounds like my kind of alpine climbing!


Is there a book onthe location, or could we get a little more detail on the approach?


Thanks for the TR

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The 'casual descent' has a short section of stiff 4th class (or a short rappel) but is mostly very easy.


Alpine Select by Kevin Mclane or Hiking & Climbing in Southwestern B.C should cover it.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Outstanding route as Marc said. Rock was great, situation was great, and weather was ideal. Fun to get out with keen young people. Thanks for the trip!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
East 5th? Exposed? Casual descent? Sounds like my kind of alpine climbing!


ever done the west ridge of the north twin sister? same rock - think about the steep sections of that route, then stand those up continuous for 1200 ft. frigging awesome... is this the best moderate alpine rock route in SWBC?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this