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A6+ ?


mountainmatt

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but this board needs kevbone

in the same sense that you need to have fucked a hideous fat-chick at some point in your life to put the hawties in perspective? :grin:

 

uhhh....can't say about that, but given that the easiest pitch they did was suppose to be A4+, given the picture below, it looks like it might be grade inflation. To add to MountainMatts pic on top.

David-Palmada-en-el-Oju-Pel.jpg

 

"A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches. They placed no expansion bolts at the belays. The pair based the ratings in part on their ascent last year of Intifada, on the Cottontail formation in the Fisher Towers, a route given A6 by first ascensionist Jim Beyer but said by those few that have repeated it to be A4+ or A5. "

 

Look at this one carefully, dude has his extension/Stick clip in use to take this picture. Clever.

esther%20y%20david%20en%20vivac.jpg

 

No belay bolts but it appears to be a Fixe bolt bag below.

David%20Palmada%20en%20el%20Oju%20Peligru.jpg

 

"Vertical mud", pretty bad-assed in either case.

Esther%20Olle%20en%20Oju%20Peligru2.jpg

 

david%20palmada%20y%20su%20osito.jpg

 

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Sooo...in order to seem badass, they made up a new grade by comparing their route to another route that is widely accepted to have been overrated? Losers.

 

Perhaps, but please Josh, they need slack for they are foreigners and not use to our sandbagging ways. LOL

 

Realistically, once the route is repeated, then the truth will be laid bare. In looking at the picture of the crack the guy is leading, in no way does it appear to be A4 (easiest pitch of the 1 was suppose to be A4+)...but I wasn't there, and it's a picture. Furthermore, A4+ of yesteryear was easier than A4+ of today....so whatever. I can't say and don't know, wasn't there. A "crack" in mud may not be quite as fun as a crack in granite or bomber Basalt eh?

 

Time will tell. I like the pictures though.

 

:wave:

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My high school buddy Chris Kalous clarifies everything here. For cred's sake, I'll add that he did the second ascent of World's End on the Titan plus lots of other completely sick aid about a decade or so ago. Also, he is one of the nicest and enthusiastic guys you'll ever meet and he's really just having fun here, so don't go getting all bent out of shape.

 

[video:youtube]

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