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Blake

New Routes in the Northwest

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Why put in any links at all? That would just direct people away from a fine, classy, aesthetic offering and onto a BBS spray fest.

 

 

 

I think they provide links so that people can get more information. Maybe a link to the original TR here on CC.com that prompted the article is a good follow up. Notice that many of the reports in the NWMJ come from TRs here on CC.com.

 

 

 

 

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What doesnt make the list: easier climbs (II or below, 5.7+ old school or below), well known classics

 

why is that? Is it just a walk in the park now days? Are you frowned upon or less a climber if you don't FA a 5.7 or more. I don't understand why anything FA is not put up. An FA is an FA and should be fairly documented right? hmmmm?

 

I am an id-jut...clue me in will ya.

 

Because this is the list I made

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I think a link to the original TR could be added without harming the look and feel of the short report, such as a small [original TR] link at the bottom of each report. The crosslinks between NWMJ and CC would be good for SEO too.

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ahhh I see...sorry. I thought it was a list you added too not just your list.

 

I'm learning... :grin:

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Here's the list I emailed blake and wayne a month or so ago...

No climbs from Select Vol 1 ( 2nd ed) and Vol II, Kearney

 

Taken from SW BC select, l.eavenworth, Tieton, Index guides, Burdo Guides, WA ice guide, waynesite, AAJ, CAJ., West Ice, upcoming WA ice guide, Central bc rock, Old and new castle crags guide, Oregon guide, Portland guide, alpinist mag,

 

Requirements for List: not in a select guide or a crag guide, or unrepeated in a select guide. >III >5.7

 

What doesn’t make the list: easier climbs (II or below, 5.7+ old school or below), well known classics

 

SW BC

Ampitheter Mountain – *multiple lines II-III up to 10c

*Back of Beyond Buttress III 10b 9p

-Brambles Buttress Sky III 5.10+ A1 9p NWMJ

Bardean- *Hidden Pillar 10d 16o

Bendor Range

Mt. Brice- Graveyard Shift NWMJ issue 5 IV WI3

Castle Peak – *ice route unclimbed

-*N.Butt East IV 10c 1988 aaj

-*herst/herrington cc.com

-Sod on Me IV 5.10+ M4

Cathedral Peak –*S. Face III 5.9 7p

-*Sancta Civitas III 5.9

- East face unclimbed ice line

Cheam Peak - *N.Face IV ice

Cirquese Pk *unclimbed ice

Col Foster *Great Couloir

Other long routes ice or rock

Mt. Clark- *unclimbed line on NF

The Deacon- *The Nose III+ 10c

Denture Ridge- possibility

Mt. Dione- *Zwecker-Spagnut 10b A1 12-20p

*Dione Coulior ice 5.8 20p

Disillusion Peak – III 5.8 A1 10p

Foley Peak - *NE Ridge ice/5.8

Mt. Grainger- unclimbed line on NF

Mt. Grant- unclimbed line on NF

Mt. Grimface- *True North IV 5.10 A3

-*N .Butt IV 5.9

-*SE Face 5.8 9p

-*Time Off 5.9

Hope Mtn Ice- unclimbed

Hozomeen – *Zoro Face,

-*roper email

-N Peak SW Butt IV 5.9 A2

Ibex Peak- E. Ridge IV 5.10

-Trivial Pursuits IV 5.10+ A1

-SE Ridge 5.9 III

Illusion Peaks – N.Peak *Amelie IV 5.9

- unclimbed dihedral

S.Peak- NE Face Wall V 5.9 A3

-NE Face (bastion) IV 5.10 A2

-Memorial Pillar IV 5.9 A1

James Turner *NF ice 5.7 550m

Joffree Central Pilar IV 10c

*N.Face ice IV

*Judge Howay- giant routes. Caj?

Knight Peak – *NW Face ice

Labor Day Peak- E.Pillar 5p 10d NWMJ

Lady Peak- *NE Couloir. Ice.

Les Cornes- Lumberjack Wall IV 5.9 A2

-*Sping Cocks Erect V 5.11 12p

-*Springbok direct start (voodoo child) V 10c

-*Gatekeaper 12a 8p

Macabre Tower-* 1st Pillar III 5.11a 10p

-*S. Pillar III 10b 9p

-*Grimface Traverse III 5.7

-*E.Face IV 5.10 8p

Marble Canyon- yellow brick rd. 17p 10d A0

The Monk – *many routes 5.7-5.11 4-5p

Nesakwatch Spire - *Notch Rt – IV 5.9 red fred

-*S.Spire W,Face multiple rts 4-7p II-IV 5.10-5.11+. Red fred

Mt. Northgravers - S. Face III 5.8

Old Settler *N.face winter unclimbed

Mt. Payne – *NE Face ice 5.9 IV

-*other routes to do

*Pillar of Pi – V 5.8 A2 (freeable)

Mt. Pope- *Hells Bells 10b 12p

-*Creation (the prow) 10p 10d

Mt Rideout- *Zero Gully ice III

-*North couloir ice III

- *minus 5 gully IV ice

- *minus 1 gully ice

- *other ice pot

Revolution Traverse

Mt Robertson- unclimbed line on NF

Robbie Reid- *Pacemaker VI 39p 10a A1

*The Sentinal IV 5.11-

Mt. Slesse - *N.Rib V 5.9 27p

-Fraser Ribber IV 5.9

*-N.Face Couloir. Cc.com IV 5.8 ice

*-Artic Wing IV ice

*-East Buttress V+ 10c

E.Pillar 10c V 28p

*-Navigator Wall V 10d 23p

*Death in Darkness Couloir unclimbed ice

Steinbok Peak- *NE Butt V 5.9 A2 or 5.11X

-unclimbed NF

Mt Tailifer- unclimbed NF

Mt.Tantalus- *Kay-Manix mixed 5.9 20-24p

Vienesse Peak- *NF Direct 10a A1 18p

*Bohemian Rapsody 10d 16p

Wahoo Tower- *Blues Buttress Direct 10a 15p

Welch Peak- *N.Face IV ice

-NE Face NWMJ issue 2

Whitecap *unclimbed ice

Yak Peak- Hole in My Heaven IV 10a

-Madness III 5.10

 

Red

Ares Tower- Never Enough III+ 5.9+ 13p

-*Bunker/HaleyIV AI3 M4 NWMJ issue 1

-route potential (bolts)

Bear Mtn- *The Diamond VI 5.10 A3 rd fred

Big Kangaroo- *S.Face unclimbed aid/free line

Big Snagtooth- E Face III 5.10

Billy Goat Buttress (Pt 6978) –*Perfect Crime III 5.9 5p nwmj issue 5

-Easy Getaway 8p III 5.10- NWMJ issue 5

Blackhorse Point- Archer III 5.8

-Pampas Drifter III+ 5.8

Black Peak unclimbed ice line

The Blob (the Rake) *Plan 9. IV 5.10- NWMJ issue 4

Mt. Blum – North Ridge aaj 1972

Bomber Buttress (Pt 7046) III 5.8 10p

Burgandy Spire- *Action Potential III 5.10c

-*Ultramega OK IIII 5.11-

-Annie Greensprung III 5.9

-SW Rib unclimbed

Carlos Rossi Memorial Tower IV 10d NWMJ issue 1

Cedar Creek Wall (pt 7002)– Solitude and Ecstatic Cling IV 5.9 13p Burdo Guide,

NF- 5.9 A3, Uncle Vanya III 5.9 red fred

*Chevel/Dark Horse/Little Chevel unclimbed potential

Cloudcap Peak- *unclimbed couloirs

Colfax Peak- *N.Face III WI4

*-Polish Route III WI5

Concord Tower- East Face unclimbed

Constitution Crag- route potential

Crooked Thumb/Ghost Peak/Challanger Walls- *east face potential

Cub Scout Salute- *unclimbed s. face

Cuthroat Peak- N. Peak E.F. III 5.9 1987 AAJ

-E.Face III 5.10

-Firefighter IV 5.11c 7p

-unclimbed ice on NF

Davis Peak - *NE Face Couloir NWMJ issue 2

*-other winter options

*-NE Face central IV 5.10 18p

-other face routes, done and undone

Mt. Despair – *NE Ridge and walls - unclimbed

Early Winter Spire Traverse- unclimbed

Elephant Butte- rumored potential

Mt. Fury W.Peak- *Mongo Ridge VI 5.10 nwmj issue 4

-Tombstone Wall unclimbed

Goat Wall- Sisyphus III 11a 10p

-Restless Native ?

-Promised Land

-Goat’s Beard –V 5+ 5.0 A2

-other goat beards 5-8p Wi3-Wi5 5.9

Golden Horn- NE Face unclimbed

Grizzley Tower- NF IV 5.10+

Half Moon- Lunar Rubble III 10a

-route pot in area (bolts?)

Hannagen Pass Ice- long ice routes possible on goat mtn

Mt Hardy- unclimbed ice rt

Hinkhouse Peak (State Crag) route potential

Holliway Mtn – unclimbed potential

Inspiration Peak – *NF. Red fred, cc.com IV 5.10b 12p

Liberty Bell- -NW Corner III 5.10a A2+ NWMJ issue 4

-NF direct III+ 10c

-Independence Rt V 5.8 A3 or 12a

-Freedom Rider IV 10d

-Serpentine Crack III 5.10+

Lincoln Peak- *unclimbed ice/couloir

Luna Peak- E.Face unclimbed

M&M Wall 0 IV 5.8 A4

McMillan Peak- East Peak: N.F. and N.Butt V 5.9 – rolf/pete, Kearney

*E/W gully- unclimbed

-East face, unclimbed

McNaught Peak- N Ridge direct- unclimbed

Minuteman – East Face III 10b 6p. burdo guide, red fred

Mox Peak SE Spire– *The Devil’s Club V+ 5.11- NWMJ issue 3

*-E.Face Left and Middle - unclimbed

*-After Hours V 5.10+

*- NW Spire W. Ridge unclimbed

*Mythic Wall- III 5.10 6p

-Evil Twin Arete III 5.9+ NWMJ

Newhalem Canyon- *unclimbed ice big

Nooksak Tower – S.Face V 5.10- aaj 2003

*-colin winter route?

North Early Winter Spire- Labor Pains III 5.11a

-*NW Corner III 5.11a

-N.Face III 5.9

-w. Face III 11a

-E Buttress III+ 5.9 11p

-FlyCatcher III+ 10b

Paisano Pinacle – Rampage link up with burgundy IV 5.10 13p

-Harpell Rt. NWMJ issue 1

Pickets Traverse – *Southern VI 5.10+ AAJ 2004

-Northern VI 5.7 NWMJ Issue 3

Pernod Spire – W. Face IV 5.10

-Direct W. Face III 5.10+ NWMJ issue 4

-Indirect W. Face III+ 5.10 C2 NWMJ Issue 4

Phantom Peak- unclimbed s. ridge

*Poltergeist Pinacle- IV 5.9 nwmj issue 2

Porcupine Peak – unclimbed lines

Poster Peak NE Ridge III 5.9 NWMJ issue 1

Pyramid Peak- unclimbed nf possibility

Mt Redoubt- winter line?

-Flying Buttress IV 5.9 red fred

*Mt Rexford (BC) – “common knowledge” III 5.11 red fred 2007 caj

The Roost (Jay Peak) – NE rib unclimbed

Mt Serfit – uncimbed face

Mt. Shuksun – *NW Arayete III 5.9 NWMH issue 5

-Satan’s Sidewalk. III 5.7 WI3+ NWMJ issue 1

Silver Horn- The Challace III 5.10 NWMJ Issue 3

Silverstar- *E. Ridge V 5.9 NWMJ issue 3

-W. Face couloir III AI2 M4 NWMJ issue 2

-*Stellar Eclipse IV 5.11 1996 AAJ

-NE Ridge III 5.9

-*unclimbed line on W.face

Snagtooth Ridge Traverse - unclimbed

The Snout- *Multiple routes

South Early Winter Spire- *NW Face III 5.11?

-Mojo Rising 6p III 5.11 A1

-N.Face III 5.10 A2

-Lowe E Face and NE Corner aaj 1966 III+ 5.8 A1

-Inferno Route III 10c 6p

-Passenger 9p IV 12a (11b A0)

-The Hitchiker ? burdo guide?

-The Midnight Ride IV 5.9 A4

-Slug Trail ??

Spectre Peak- *Haunted Wall IV 5.9+ nwmj issue 4

-possilbe other routes (bolts?)

Sunset Buttress- unclimbed lines

Swiss Peak- *unclimbed buttresses

The Tomahawk- unclimbed posibilty n.f

Tower Mtn- NE Face III 5.10

Mt. Triumph – Nface Central Rib IV+ 5.10 18p red fred

*-unclimbed sw ridge

Twin Sisters Traverse (winter?)

Varden Creek Spire- III 5.9 NWMJ issue 5

Valsiki ridge gullies unclimbed ice pot

*Washington Pass Traverse – VI 5.10 NWMJ issue 3

*Whatcom Peak- unclimbed w face

Whine Spire- *Gato Negro IV 5.10+ 11p red fred

Whistler Pk- winter lines

 

Green

Buttress up Spruce Creek, unclimbed

*Bannock Mtn NF Winter, unclimbed

*Mt. Baring- multiple routes up the Main Peak’s North, East face IV-V 5.10 to 5.12

*Dolomite Tower- multiple routes V 5.11a to VI 12a/b. Ref Green Beckey

*Big Four- other lines besides spindrift up NF

Mt. Berge – E. Ridge III 5.9. Ref cc.com and green beckey

*Blueberry Hill- perkins info

Bonanza Peak – Russian Route NF of SW peak. V 5.9. ref green beckey, aaj 1976,

- Traverse Martin Volkin V 5.7+ NWMJ issue 1

- NW Ridge V 5.8

*Mt Booker – NE Face winter, unclimbed

Buck Mtn – N.Ridge, unclimbed

- *NF Winter. Ref cc.com. NWMJ

Buckindy Crags – possible routes

Mt. Buckner – *winter, ref NWMJ, cc.com – other new lines

-Complete E. Ridge IV 5.8 NWMJ

Cascade Peak – *N.Face NW Chimney. Winter 5.8 mixed

Mt. Cheval. N.Ridge II 5.7 1500’. Aaj 1975, green fred

Cheshire Cat on Spire Pt- possible new route

Chiwawa- *Intravenous. M6 WI4 IV NWMJ issue 2

Colonial Peak – SplitShot IV AI4+

Dome Peak – *SW Face IV 5.9+, other lines ref cc.com, aaj, nwmh

Eldorado – Coca Cabana ice/mixed NWMJ issue 2

-other unclimbed winter lines

Elephant Head – w. face unclimbed,

nw ridge III 5.8

Exfoliation Dome- Voodo Wall IV 5.10 A2 NWMJ issue 1

German Helmet – maybe a line?

Goode – Megaladon Ridge. IV 5.10- NWMJ issue 5

Gunsight Peak – Gunnrunner IV 5.10a cc.com, nwmj

- *Sol’s route cc.com

Hall Peak- NW Face III 5.6 WI3 NWMJ issue 4

-Silverton Sickle III WI3

Mt Higgins – unclimbed

Johannesburge- *plenty of unclimbed winter routes

*-NE Face Winter, Bebie/Stoddard Rt IV. 1976 aaj

-*Fault Couloir 1987 aaj

-CK route. V 5.10b AI3+ nwmj issue 3

Lake 22 Headwall – *NW Chutes IV AI3 13p nwmj issue 3

-other lines

Mt. Logan – Wallace ridge. Nwmj issue 1

Lyall Ridge- maybe routes

Mantis Peak- Distal Phalanx IV 5.10a A0

-*ice routes in winter

Marmot Head- possible routes

Mesahchie Peak- winter possibilities

Paul Bunyon’s Stump- WI5/6 pillar unclimbed

Pyramid Peak- *N.Face Ruch/Cotter

It ain’t over yet motherfuckers IV M4 7p

more potential!

Roan Wall – *Center Stage III 5.11- 10p nwmj issue 5. Link with salish for long rt

-*Stage Rt III 5.10b 7p

Salish Peak – *Flight of the Falcon III 10b NWMJ issue 5

unclimbed free/aid potential

Seven Fingered Jack- winter potential

Sloan- *West and NF ice unclimbed

NW Butt 17p IV 5.8

E.Face Direct IV 5.8 A4

Sperry Peak- *winter potential

Central Rib. IV 5.8. Green beckey

Sinister Peak- *unclimbed S.Face, and others in the garden glacier cirque

*Squire Creek- matt p. info?

Tang Tower- Shine Your Pitty III 5.8 + NWMJ issue 2

-Unnamed Buttress III 5.10 NWMJ issue 2

Three Fingers- *NE Face IV M3 WI4+ NWMJ issue 4

*-potential very long route on main face, and waterfall to right of freih route

Thunder Peak- W.Butt AAJ 1999

Tillies Towers- *rolf/erik route, maybe more. Cc.com, nwmj

Torment Forbidden Traverse- 50 favorite climbs ref

Triad – is it in the select?

Triplets- *East/Middle Gully. Route potential along the cascade peak  mixup ridgeline

Tupshin- Blake’s route cc.com, nwmj

*Unclimbed ice route

Whitechuck-* E Face Couloir IV 5.8 WI3 Winter. NWMJ issue 2

Whitehorse- *E.Face couloir. IV AI4 Nwmj. Issue 3

-*e.face unclimbed

-other winter potential

Witch Doctor Wall – Solaris IV 10b A2 6p NWMJ issue 1

 

Brown

Abiel Peak- Blind Date. Nwmj 1ssue 3

-NF Direct III WI4 nwmj issue 3

-NF Couloir

-It’s All-Der III AI4 nwmj issue 3

-Spindrift Daze III AI3+ NWMJ issue 4

*Acid Baby Spire – cc.com III 5.10+ 9p

Mt. Adams- Rusk Glacier Ice Cliff. IV AAJ 1979, brown fred

-victory ridge IV ice

Banks Lake Ice- old and new

Boola Boola Buttress- Thank you baby jesus. III 5.9 + NWMJ issue 3

-Black Velvet NWMH Issue 4 IV 5.10

-Yoder rt IV 5.11 brown fred

Cashmere Crags- Blockhouse up to 5p 10

-Mole up to 5.11 500’

-Dragon Teeth III 5.10

-Toketie Wall up to III 5.10 6p

-Lighthouse tower III 5.10

-Comet Spire III 5.9

Chair Peak – *NE Buttress. Cc.com

Colchuck Balanced Rock- *new route pot

-*Tempest Wall. Cc.com now free at 12b

Colchuck Peak- NE Butt, E.Face IV 10d. AAJ 1993

Crystal Lake Tower- SW Rib III 5.8 19p

D’Artanian Spire- S.Face IV 10c C1 NWMJ issue 4

Dragontail Peak- *Boving Rt. IV 10c. cc.com

*-NW Face cotter – bebbie IV Wi3 mixed

wasson-wilson IV WI3 mixed

*-dragontail maddnress IV 5.9 ice brown fred

*-dragonfly V 5.11 cc.com

-direct NE Butt IV

*-dragons of eden. Cc.com 1990 aaj, cc.com 12a V

-20 Sided Dihedral NWMJ issue 3 IV 5.10 A0

-Dragonscar NWMJ issue 4 IV 5.11R

*-NW face ice rt. Cc.com

Mt. Garfield – Infinate Bliss. Cc.com

*Ice route up infinite bliss

S.Rib- IV 5.10 brown fred

SE Face V 5.11

Plent of fa ground

Granite Mtn- 6p 5.11- NWMJ issue 4

Goose Egg Mtn- see teiton rock

Index Crag- many many hard aid lines

Mt. Index- North Norwegian Buttress VI 5.9 A3+

-S. Norwegian Buttress V 5.10 1989 burdo/white

-Middle Main Gulley V ice

Summit Traverse V 5.6

-E. Face Middle Peak V 5.7 A3 AAJ 1962

-*NF Middle 1981 AAJ

-*W. Face Main- Eve Dearborne. Ref aaj 1990, 1st ed cascade select

-Murphy’s Law NWMJ issue V ice

Bridge Creek Wall- rock rt

-Wet and wild Wi4 4-5p

Mt Kent- NF III M4 NWMJ issue 4

-other routes

Little Anapurna- Open Book III 5.10

Little Big Chief- IV 5.9 9p NWMJ issue 1

Little Snowpatch- Lizard Wall III 5.9 6p

McLellen- ice route?

Obscurly Enchanting Fur III 5.10+ NWMJ issue 4

Mt. Persis- ice route unclimbed

-Hexorcist, NF IV 5.11a

Porpoise Point- III 5.10

Prussik Peak- Lady Godiva IV 5.9 A3 AAJ 1975

-*Solid Gold

-Der Sportsmen III 5.11+ cascadeclimbers.com

-1984 S. Face III 5.10 AAJ 1986

Mt Rainier- *N. Mowich Headwall IV. Aaj 1969. brown fred

Liberty Wall Direct- IV+

Willis Wall- multiple routes IV-V ice/rock. Brown fred, aaj

Curtis Ridge- IV class 5 + aid 1958 aaj

Snoqualamie Mtn- *pineapple express. IV M6 5.8 WI3+ Nwmj issue 2

-blue moon variation m5+

Snow Creek Wall – *A Swing and a Prayer IV WI5 M6 NWMJ issue 4

-White Slabs and Country Club Ramp III Wi4-4

*Static Point – many long slab/crack rts

*Stobach Mtn Ice – old and new

Mt. Stuart--*NW Face of lower w. ridge. Gorillas in the mist. III 5.11-

-*NW Face couloir. IV ice

-*NE Face IV var 5.10+aid - 5.9

-*Winter ne Face 1978. brown fred

-*Blue moon in june. Ice. 1985 aaj

-*Lara Kellog Memorial. IV WI6 A0 NWMJ issue 5

Summit Chief Mtn – N.Face III AI3 NWMJ issue 1

-Alpine Chicken AI4+ 5.8 NWMJ issue 2

Tumwater Canyon long routes?

Wedge Mtn- NF ice. Brown fred

 

Olympics

Sawtooth Ridge Traverse V 5.7+ NWMJ issue 2

Mt Ellinor- Acres of Diamond 6p Wi3

 

Oregon

*Columbia River Gorge- many ice up to 6p. wi3-6, many unclimbed

-*Black Dagger III WI5+

-*Ainsworth Left III WI5+

-*Blackjack III WI3

-*Brave New World III WI5

-*Dodson IV WI4

Mt. Hood- *Black Spider. Great center drip unclimbed ice

-*Arachnaphobia IV 5.9 AI4

-*Black Widow III WI5+

-Castle crags ice rts

*Illumination Rock. *SW Rib Mixed 5.9 III

*April Insanity IV 5.9+ AI4+ M4+

*Rime Dogs III 5.8 AI3.

*Iron Maiden III 5.7 AI2

*Matterhorn – w. face routes, unclimbed butt?

*Baker City ice wall

Hamilton Mtn- *unclimbed ice face

Crown Pt – routes III hard aid or run out free

*Turkey Monster –

*Steins Pillar – III 11a

Wolf Rock- Barad Dur IV 5.9 A3

Beacon Rock- Steppenwolf IV 5.11+ A0

N.Face Theilson – winter pot

St. Peters Dome – III aid / runout free

Razorblade Pinnacle – up to IV A4

 

N.Cali

Battle Mtn- *plumbline 5.10 9p

Mt Hubris- *Tripple Crown 5.10d 6p

Castle Peak- *N.Face III 5.10 10p

-*E.Face IV 5.10d 10p

 

 

BUMP for stoke!

 

anybody wanna post a pic of the ice on infinite bliss or mt. hamilton?

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BUMP for stoke!

 

anybody wanna post a pic of the ice on infinite bliss or mt. hamilton?

 

Hamilton from JH's gallery

 

IMG_0320.JPG

 

I've got a few more pics at home on an external drive.

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didn't it take weeks to get hamilton to look like that, and even then no one got it? that's the only time since i've been living out here that i can recall it getting to look that f'n awesome.

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I think just like all columbia gorge climbs day and night time temps in addition to wind speed, cloud cover, and amount of precip prior to the cold snap will all determine how quickly it does or doesnt come in. It will get climbed.

 

I think any local committed to giving it a go would be wise to recon the approach as they will most likely be doing it in the dark. I will tell you the hamilton mountain trail is not the fastest way to the base of the face :)

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Argh, that was one cold romp up the Corner at Beacon with ice on the slab and on the moves above the Tree Ledge and a frigid 50-60kt wind coming up and over the ridge ramp.

 

Gorge_Falls.jpg

 

Stopped at Rooster Rock SP to check out the waves on the way back but could hardly stand up in the parking lot.

 

Nuking_at_Rooster.jpg

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i'm no ice climber but I sure do get stoked when you PDXer's get the conditions to throw down in the gorge.

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