New Routes in the Northwest

[Lowell_Skoog]

Thanks for the list, Blake.

 

Do you know off-hand which of these climbs have not been reported in the NWMJ? Do you have any suggestions on how the NWMJ editors can do a better job of learning about and documenting these climbs?

 

(Keep in mind that the 2009 NWMJ is still under development and climbs done this year won't be documented until next year.)

[Sol]

John you should proabaly bitch about length ratings after you repeat the routes and I can assure you some of the rock climbs are index stoutness all day...

 

Isn't that the things with new or obscure routes, there is little consensus or confirmation, as such the character will change as more ascents are done and more information is gleaned.

[G-spotter]

seems like some of these routes are already in guidebooks (Red Beckey), maybe better to keep it to those that are newer?

[dberdinka]

Thanks for the list, Blake.

 

Do you know off-hand which of these climbs have not been reported in the NWMJ? Do you have any suggestions on how the NWMJ editors can do a better job of learning about and documenting these climbs?

 

(Keep in mind that the 2009 NWMJ is still under development and climbs done this year won't be documented until next year.)

 

I'm of the impression that the NWMJ has caught almost all of those. To better document climbing activity the NWMJ editors might have the best luck by reaching out to active climbers who don't report their work on the internet (i.e. P Doorish and L Windham, many others)

 

While Blake's list is cool, considering that it is a list of hyperlinks, maybe it should be renamed "New Routes in the Northwest (that have been reported on the internet)". The point being that there are in fact climbs going up that aren't being sprayed about. I'd like to know more about those!

 

Examples

 

The slugtrack route on S Early Winter Spire (climbers right of Passenger)

The new Burdoe Route on the same face (Hitchhiker?)

The supposed hundreds of routes Doorish has put up in the Nightmare and Knitting Needles

I'm sure there are many more I'm clueless too.

 

Just sitting down with Doorish and getting him to talk (Lowell?) would probably produce enough material for a 4th volume of the Beckey Guide (White, Green, Red and Doorish)

 

Ultimately as nice as Blakes list is a personal blog is probably not the best place to maintain new route beta (unless Blake wants to be the next Fred Beckey). Maybe we should all hold our breathe for the CC.com Wiki.

[Pete_H]

Wasn't proposing an additional rating scheme... would just hate to see the grades around here soften. Seems more and more people are padding their commitment estimate just enough to meet the AAJ grade IV cutoff.

 

Save Index! The crag and the grading style!

 

 

Since when did you become such a badass Index local? Guess I just never seen you there.

 

[toproper]

It's great to see a healthy dose of moderates on the list for the 5.9 leader. I for one, really appreciate this. Thanks for the compilation and thanks to all of you pioneering these new routes in our beloved cascades!

[Blake]

Thanks for the list, Blake.

 

Do you know off-hand which of these climbs have not been reported in the NWMJ? Do you have any suggestions on how the NWMJ editors can do a better job of learning about and documenting these climbs?

 

(Keep in mind that the 2009 NWMJ is still under development and climbs done this year won't be documented until next year.)

 

Hi Lowell,

 

I basically created the list with help from a couple folks who had smaller-scale versions of similar lists, my own memory, and the NWMJ. Here are a few that I don't think made the NWMJ:

 

Cascade Mall on SEWS (Whindham Cotman Bolted Route)

 

East Face of Gunsight (the new version) - The lazy fellow who posted below you in this thread established that route, which intersects with Gordy's (now defunct) climb on the last pitch or two. It's stellar.

 

North Face of Repulse (But Gordy was probably going to submit it this year)

 

Prayer for a Friend on the South Face of Prusik

Follows this line.

and finishes up finger cracks/seams with one bolt, which is visible from the W. Ridge. It hasn't been free climbed, and might not have seen a continuous ascent.

 

 

A few others might have been before the NWMJ got started, but I think the NWMJ people have done an amazing job since it got going.

[Blake]

 

Ultimately as nice as Blakes list is a personal blog is probably not the best place to maintain new route beta (unless Blake wants to be the next Fred Beckey). Maybe we should all hold our breathe for the CC.com Wiki.

 

If anyone wants to copy the list to any permanent website that is not my little web blog, please go for it. I put it where I did because I don't know about making websites and didn't have anywhere better to post the list.

 

I added the route on Big 4 Tower, the Hitchhiker, and a couple others I had forgotten.

[ivan]

The grade IV defn of 'all day' is pretty vague. Lynn Hill did the nose in a day, and others may take all day to do Dierdre. Instead just list a the number and difficulty of pitches (8 pitches, 5.11- vs 17 pitches 5.6 and/or length (500ft, 1500ft, 4000ft).

but the grade also takes into consideration the difficulty of descent - j'berg and the index traverse earn their grade V, despite having essentially zero difficult or even moderate rock climbing, precisely b/c of the commitment level - listing the # of pitches and crux rating is great, but keep the grade rating too

[olyclimber]

The wiki is coming, and we'll obviously need everyone's help to make it successful. It will be a perfect place for information like Blake has spent the time putting together.

 

See the thread in "cc news" forum if you would like to participate in developing it. it will be more moderated and distilled information rather than trip report oriented.

[Pete_H]

Blake, is that Prayer for a Friend route on the same headwall as The Joust?

 

 

[olyclimber]

[Blake]

Blake, is that Prayer for a Friend route on the same headwall as The Joust?

 

 

Not sure where The Joust goes... maybe they are partly the same? I just know that Prayer For a Friend finishes up the finger cracks I circled in red, and has a couple protection bolts on it. If on the west ridge, when you are at the end of the last level-traverse part, look right to see it. These finger cracks are significantly overhung and there is one bolt, visible, to protect a section which wont take gear. It was put up by Fitz Cahall and his wife. They thought maybe harder 5.12 or even 5.13 for the last pitch if freed... yikes! there's a neat story about it here:

 

http://www.thecleanestline.com/2007/09/a-prayer-for-a-.html

 

 

on Porter's photo above: my understanding is Der Sportsman and Prayer both climb the slender, west-facing aspect on the right side of the picture, leading straight to the top. Der Sportsman follows a line on the right, almost the arete. Prayer is more left, closer to the corner.

 

Prusik is so climbable though, it almost could use a topo like the Lower Town Wall or "The Monk". IT would be cool to see an artistic Mark Allen pen-and-ink drawing off the face with all the climbs labeled, like he did for Washington Pass.

[Pete_H]

I guess the Joust is next door to Lady Godiva, so different.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/586455/Searchpage/1/Main/44089/Words/joust/Search/true/Re_TR_Prusik_Peak_Somewhere_on#Post586455

 

Who is Cahill's "trio of climbers solving the northwest's last great free climbing project" anyway?

[G-spotter]

 

Who is Cahill's "trio of climbers solving the northwest's last great free climbing project" anyway?

 

Maybe it's the guys on The tempest wallFull Tilt

[RuMR]

Wasn't proposing an additional rating scheme... would just hate to see the grades around here soften. Seems more and more people are padding their commitment estimate just enough to meet the AAJ grade IV cutoff.

 

Save Index! The crag and the grading style!

 

 

Since when did you become such a badass Index local? Guess I just never seen you there.

dood...he sent the girth pillar! The one that's just left of Upper Town!! ! Now back up real slow and say yer sorry...

[eldiente]

who cares... if some speed demon comes along and climbs it in 5 hours do you down grade it to a grade II or III?

 

 

The whole grade scale is pointless and needs to go away. The only thing that is useful is how many pitches and how hard are those pitches. If there is other things people ought to know ( Huge hike, no way to bail once on the ridge, ice fall hazard etc etc) put that info in the description.

 

 

[Dane]

Great work on the list..thanks!

[Lowell_Skoog]

A few others might have been before the NWMJ got started, but I think the NWMJ people have done an amazing job since it got going.

 

That's good to hear. In the past we have tried to make the NWMJ website stand alone. We've modeled our short reports section after the AAJ, and we haven't included links from the NWMJ website to trip reports (as you did in your list). This was mainly an aesthetic decision, I would say.

 

But our editorial team wiki (which is accessible only to our volunteer editors) has links to all the original trip reports which you included in your list. I collect these links by monitoring CC.com and other forums throughout the year. When we swing into editing mode we refer to this list to contact people and compile our short reports.

 

I wonder if we should start including links to TRs on our short report pages? The links may eventually go bad (an aesthetic bummer) but in the short run they would probably be useful. I welcome your thoughts.

 

[Choada_Boy]

Lowell: I think that you've done a great job with the NWMJ as it stands to date, and that links would add clutter, die, and generally detract from reading it, IMHO. Anyone who knows how to search the internet can track down TRs pretty easy if they are so motivated. My $0.02

[NoahT]

I, too, like the simplicity of the short reports, as is. And I like that a bit of the "reporters" personality comes through too, some including more info than others, some keeping the mystery alive with just a few short lines. The boiled-down version also keeps me moving through the list. I don't get hung up following link after link of a particularly interesting one.

 

I don't remember off-hand, but if you don't already, maybe just citing a particular source (if there is one to follow) would nudge people in the right direction but save you the hassel of dead links/lessened asthetics. That said I've never felt nwmj was lacking this, as I agree that when I want to track something down, it's never that hard.

[olyclimber]

Lowell, we'll work with you guys to ensure that cc.com links don't go stale...can't speak for other sites though.

[Choada_Boy]

Why put in any links at all? That would just direct people away from a fine, classy, aesthetic offering and onto a BBS spray fest.

[layton]

Here's the list I emailed blake and wayne a month or so ago...

No climbs from Select Vol 1 ( 2nd ed) and Vol II, Kearney

 

Taken from SW BC select, l.eavenworth, Tieton, Index guides, Burdo Guides, WA ice guide, waynesite, AAJ, CAJ., West Ice, upcoming WA ice guide, Central bc rock, Old and new castle crags guide, Oregon guide, Portland guide, alpinist mag,

 

Requirements for List: not in a select guide or a crag guide, or unrepeated in a select guide. >III >5.7

 

What doesn’t make the list: easier climbs (II or below, 5.7+ old school or below), well known classics

 

SW BC

Ampitheter Mountain – *multiple lines II-III up to 10c

*Back of Beyond Buttress III 10b 9p

-Brambles Buttress Sky III 5.10+ A1 9p NWMJ

Bardean- *Hidden Pillar 10d 16o

Bendor Range

Mt. Brice- Graveyard Shift NWMJ issue 5 IV WI3

Castle Peak – *ice route unclimbed

-*N.Butt East IV 10c 1988 aaj

-*herst/herrington cc.com

-Sod on Me IV 5.10+ M4

Cathedral Peak –*S. Face III 5.9 7p

-*Sancta Civitas III 5.9

- East face unclimbed ice line

Cheam Peak - *N.Face IV ice

Cirquese Pk *unclimbed ice

Col Foster *Great Couloir

Other long routes ice or rock

Mt. Clark- *unclimbed line on NF

The Deacon- *The Nose III+ 10c

Denture Ridge- possibility

Mt. Dione- *Zwecker-Spagnut 10b A1 12-20p

*Dione Coulior ice 5.8 20p

Disillusion Peak – III 5.8 A1 10p

Foley Peak - *NE Ridge ice/5.8

Mt. Grainger- unclimbed line on NF

Mt. Grant- unclimbed line on NF

Mt. Grimface- *True North IV 5.10 A3

-*N .Butt IV 5.9

-*SE Face 5.8 9p

-*Time Off 5.9

Hope Mtn Ice- unclimbed

Hozomeen – *Zoro Face,

-*roper email

-N Peak SW Butt IV 5.9 A2

Ibex Peak- E. Ridge IV 5.10

-Trivial Pursuits IV 5.10+ A1

-SE Ridge 5.9 III

Illusion Peaks – N.Peak *Amelie IV 5.9

- unclimbed dihedral

S.Peak- NE Face Wall V 5.9 A3

-NE Face (bastion) IV 5.10 A2

-Memorial Pillar IV 5.9 A1

James Turner *NF ice 5.7 550m

Joffree Central Pilar IV 10c

*N.Face ice IV

*Judge Howay- giant routes. Caj?

Knight Peak – *NW Face ice

Labor Day Peak- E.Pillar 5p 10d NWMJ

Lady Peak- *NE Couloir. Ice.

Les Cornes- Lumberjack Wall IV 5.9 A2

-*Sping Cocks Erect V 5.11 12p

-*Springbok direct start (voodoo child) V 10c

-*Gatekeaper 12a 8p

Macabre Tower-* 1st Pillar III 5.11a 10p

-*S. Pillar III 10b 9p

-*Grimface Traverse III 5.7

-*E.Face IV 5.10 8p

Marble Canyon- yellow brick rd. 17p 10d A0

The Monk – *many routes 5.7-5.11 4-5p

Nesakwatch Spire - *Notch Rt – IV 5.9 red fred

-*S.Spire W,Face multiple rts 4-7p II-IV 5.10-5.11+. Red fred

Mt. Northgravers - S. Face III 5.8

Old Settler *N.face winter unclimbed

Mt. Payne – *NE Face ice 5.9 IV

-*other routes to do

*Pillar of Pi – V 5.8 A2 (freeable)

Mt. Pope- *Hells Bells 10b 12p

-*Creation (the prow) 10p 10d

Mt Rideout- *Zero Gully ice III

-*North couloir ice III

- *minus 5 gully IV ice

- *minus 1 gully ice

- *other ice pot

Revolution Traverse

Mt Robertson- unclimbed line on NF

Robbie Reid- *Pacemaker VI 39p 10a A1

*The Sentinal IV 5.11-

Mt. Slesse - *N.Rib V 5.9 27p

-Fraser Ribber IV 5.9

*-N.Face Couloir. Cc.com IV 5.8 ice

*-Artic Wing IV ice

*-East Buttress V+ 10c

E.Pillar 10c V 28p

*-Navigator Wall V 10d 23p

*Death in Darkness Couloir unclimbed ice

Steinbok Peak- *NE Butt V 5.9 A2 or 5.11X

-unclimbed NF

Mt Tailifer- unclimbed NF

Mt.Tantalus- *Kay-Manix mixed 5.9 20-24p

Vienesse Peak- *NF Direct 10a A1 18p

*Bohemian Rapsody 10d 16p

Wahoo Tower- *Blues Buttress Direct 10a 15p

Welch Peak- *N.Face IV ice

-NE Face NWMJ issue 2

Whitecap *unclimbed ice

Yak Peak- Hole in My Heaven IV 10a

-Madness III 5.10

 

Red

Ares Tower- Never Enough III+ 5.9+ 13p

-*Bunker/HaleyIV AI3 M4 NWMJ issue 1

-route potential (bolts)

Bear Mtn- *The Diamond VI 5.10 A3 rd fred

Big Kangaroo- *S.Face unclimbed aid/free line

Big Snagtooth- E Face III 5.10

Billy Goat Buttress (Pt 6978) –*Perfect Crime III 5.9 5p nwmj issue 5

-Easy Getaway 8p III 5.10- NWMJ issue 5

Blackhorse Point- Archer III 5.8

-Pampas Drifter III+ 5.8

Black Peak unclimbed ice line

The Blob (the Rake) *Plan 9. IV 5.10- NWMJ issue 4

Mt. Blum – North Ridge aaj 1972

Bomber Buttress (Pt 7046) III 5.8 10p

Burgandy Spire- *Action Potential III 5.10c

-*Ultramega OK IIII 5.11-

-Annie Greensprung III 5.9

-SW Rib unclimbed

Carlos Rossi Memorial Tower IV 10d NWMJ issue 1

Cedar Creek Wall (pt 7002)– Solitude and Ecstatic Cling IV 5.9 13p Burdo Guide,

NF- 5.9 A3, Uncle Vanya III 5.9 red fred

*Chevel/Dark Horse/Little Chevel unclimbed potential

Cloudcap Peak- *unclimbed couloirs

Colfax Peak- *N.Face III WI4

*-Polish Route III WI5

Concord Tower- East Face unclimbed

Constitution Crag- route potential

Crooked Thumb/Ghost Peak/Challanger Walls- *east face potential

Cub Scout Salute- *unclimbed s. face

Cuthroat Peak- N. Peak E.F. III 5.9 1987 AAJ

-E.Face III 5.10

-Firefighter IV 5.11c 7p

-unclimbed ice on NF

Davis Peak - *NE Face Couloir NWMJ issue 2

*-other winter options

*-NE Face central IV 5.10 18p

-other face routes, done and undone

Mt. Despair – *NE Ridge and walls - unclimbed

Early Winter Spire Traverse- unclimbed

Elephant Butte- rumored potential

Mt. Fury W.Peak- *Mongo Ridge VI 5.10 nwmj issue 4

-Tombstone Wall unclimbed

Goat Wall- Sisyphus III 11a 10p

-Restless Native ?

-Promised Land

-Goat’s Beard –V 5+ 5.0 A2

-other goat beards 5-8p Wi3-Wi5 5.9

Golden Horn- NE Face unclimbed

Grizzley Tower- NF IV 5.10+

Half Moon- Lunar Rubble III 10a

-route pot in area (bolts?)

Hannagen Pass Ice- long ice routes possible on goat mtn

Mt Hardy- unclimbed ice rt

Hinkhouse Peak (State Crag) route potential

Holliway Mtn – unclimbed potential

Inspiration Peak – *NF. Red fred, cc.com IV 5.10b 12p

Liberty Bell- -NW Corner III 5.10a A2+ NWMJ issue 4

-NF direct III+ 10c

-Independence Rt V 5.8 A3 or 12a

-Freedom Rider IV 10d

-Serpentine Crack III 5.10+

Lincoln Peak- *unclimbed ice/couloir

Luna Peak- E.Face unclimbed

M&M Wall 0 IV 5.8 A4

McMillan Peak- East Peak: N.F. and N.Butt V 5.9 – rolf/pete, Kearney

*E/W gully- unclimbed

-East face, unclimbed

McNaught Peak- N Ridge direct- unclimbed

Minuteman – East Face III 10b 6p. burdo guide, red fred

Mox Peak SE Spire– *The Devil’s Club V+ 5.11- NWMJ issue 3

*-E.Face Left and Middle - unclimbed

*-After Hours V 5.10+

*- NW Spire W. Ridge unclimbed

*Mythic Wall- III 5.10 6p

-Evil Twin Arete III 5.9+ NWMJ

Newhalem Canyon- *unclimbed ice big

Nooksak Tower – S.Face V 5.10- aaj 2003

*-colin winter route?

North Early Winter Spire- Labor Pains III 5.11a

-*NW Corner III 5.11a

-N.Face III 5.9

-w. Face III 11a

-E Buttress III+ 5.9 11p

-FlyCatcher III+ 10b

Paisano Pinacle – Rampage link up with burgundy IV 5.10 13p

-Harpell Rt. NWMJ issue 1

Pickets Traverse – *Southern VI 5.10+ AAJ 2004

-Northern VI 5.7 NWMJ Issue 3

Pernod Spire – W. Face IV 5.10

-Direct W. Face III 5.10+ NWMJ issue 4

-Indirect W. Face III+ 5.10 C2 NWMJ Issue 4

Phantom Peak- unclimbed s. ridge

*Poltergeist Pinacle- IV 5.9 nwmj issue 2

Porcupine Peak – unclimbed lines

Poster Peak NE Ridge III 5.9 NWMJ issue 1

Pyramid Peak- unclimbed nf possibility

Mt Redoubt- winter line?

-Flying Buttress IV 5.9 red fred

*Mt Rexford (BC) – “common knowledge” III 5.11 red fred 2007 caj

The Roost (Jay Peak) – NE rib unclimbed

Mt Serfit – uncimbed face

Mt. Shuksun – *NW Arayete III 5.9 NWMH issue 5

-Satan’s Sidewalk. III 5.7 WI3+ NWMJ issue 1

Silver Horn- The Challace III 5.10 NWMJ Issue 3

Silverstar- *E. Ridge V 5.9 NWMJ issue 3

-W. Face couloir III AI2 M4 NWMJ issue 2

-*Stellar Eclipse IV 5.11 1996 AAJ

-NE Ridge III 5.9

-*unclimbed line on W.face

Snagtooth Ridge Traverse - unclimbed

The Snout- *Multiple routes

South Early Winter Spire- *NW Face III 5.11?

-Mojo Rising 6p III 5.11 A1

-N.Face III 5.10 A2

-Lowe E Face and NE Corner aaj 1966 III+ 5.8 A1

-Inferno Route III 10c 6p

-Passenger 9p IV 12a (11b A0)

-The Hitchiker ? burdo guide?

-The Midnight Ride IV 5.9 A4

-Slug Trail ??

Spectre Peak- *Haunted Wall IV 5.9+ nwmj issue 4

-possilbe other routes (bolts?)

Sunset Buttress- unclimbed lines

Swiss Peak- *unclimbed buttresses

The Tomahawk- unclimbed posibilty n.f

Tower Mtn- NE Face III 5.10

Mt. Triumph – Nface Central Rib IV+ 5.10 18p red fred

*-unclimbed sw ridge

Twin Sisters Traverse (winter?)

Varden Creek Spire- III 5.9 NWMJ issue 5

Valsiki ridge gullies unclimbed ice pot

*Washington Pass Traverse – VI 5.10 NWMJ issue 3

*Whatcom Peak- unclimbed w face

Whine Spire- *Gato Negro IV 5.10+ 11p red fred

Whistler Pk- winter lines

 

Green

Buttress up Spruce Creek, unclimbed

*Bannock Mtn NF Winter, unclimbed

*Mt. Baring- multiple routes up the Main Peak’s North, East face IV-V 5.10 to 5.12

*Dolomite Tower- multiple routes V 5.11a to VI 12a/b. Ref Green Beckey

*Big Four- other lines besides spindrift up NF

Mt. Berge – E. Ridge III 5.9. Ref cc.com and green beckey

*Blueberry Hill- perkins info

Bonanza Peak – Russian Route NF of SW peak. V 5.9. ref green beckey, aaj 1976,

- Traverse Martin Volkin V 5.7+ NWMJ issue 1

- NW Ridge V 5.8

*Mt Booker – NE Face winter, unclimbed

Buck Mtn – N.Ridge, unclimbed

- *NF Winter. Ref cc.com. NWMJ

Buckindy Crags – possible routes

Mt. Buckner – *winter, ref NWMJ, cc.com – other new lines

-Complete E. Ridge IV 5.8 NWMJ

Cascade Peak – *N.Face NW Chimney. Winter 5.8 mixed

Mt. Cheval. N.Ridge II 5.7 1500’. Aaj 1975, green fred

Cheshire Cat on Spire Pt- possible new route

Chiwawa- *Intravenous. M6 WI4 IV NWMJ issue 2

Colonial Peak – SplitShot IV AI4+

Dome Peak – *SW Face IV 5.9+, other lines ref cc.com, aaj, nwmh

Eldorado – Coca Cabana ice/mixed NWMJ issue 2

-other unclimbed winter lines

Elephant Head – w. face unclimbed,

nw ridge III 5.8

Exfoliation Dome- Voodo Wall IV 5.10 A2 NWMJ issue 1

German Helmet – maybe a line?

Goode – Megaladon Ridge. IV 5.10- NWMJ issue 5

Gunsight Peak – Gunnrunner IV 5.10a cc.com, nwmj

- *Sol’s route cc.com

Hall Peak- NW Face III 5.6 WI3 NWMJ issue 4

-Silverton Sickle III WI3

Mt Higgins – unclimbed

Johannesburge- *plenty of unclimbed winter routes

*-NE Face Winter, Bebie/Stoddard Rt IV. 1976 aaj

-*Fault Couloir 1987 aaj

-CK route. V 5.10b AI3+ nwmj issue 3

Lake 22 Headwall – *NW Chutes IV AI3 13p nwmj issue 3

-other lines

Mt. Logan – Wallace ridge. Nwmj issue 1

Lyall Ridge- maybe routes

Mantis Peak- Distal Phalanx IV 5.10a A0

-*ice routes in winter

Marmot Head- possible routes

Mesahchie Peak- winter possibilities

Paul Bunyon’s Stump- WI5/6 pillar unclimbed

Pyramid Peak- *N.Face Ruch/Cotter

It ain’t over yet motherfuckers IV M4 7p

more potential!

Roan Wall – *Center Stage III 5.11- 10p nwmj issue 5. Link with salish for long rt

-*Stage Rt III 5.10b 7p

Salish Peak – *Flight of the Falcon III 10b NWMJ issue 5

unclimbed free/aid potential

Seven Fingered Jack- winter potential

Sloan- *West and NF ice unclimbed

NW Butt 17p IV 5.8

E.Face Direct IV 5.8 A4

Sperry Peak- *winter potential

Central Rib. IV 5.8. Green beckey

Sinister Peak- *unclimbed S.Face, and others in the garden glacier cirque

*Squire Creek- matt p. info?

Tang Tower- Shine Your Pitty III 5.8 + NWMJ issue 2

-Unnamed Buttress III 5.10 NWMJ issue 2

Three Fingers- *NE Face IV M3 WI4+ NWMJ issue 4

*-potential very long route on main face, and waterfall to right of freih route

Thunder Peak- W.Butt AAJ 1999

Tillies Towers- *rolf/erik route, maybe more. Cc.com, nwmj

Torment Forbidden Traverse- 50 favorite climbs ref

Triad – is it in the select?

Triplets- *East/Middle Gully. Route potential along the cascade peak  mixup ridgeline

Tupshin- Blake’s route cc.com, nwmj

*Unclimbed ice route

Whitechuck-* E Face Couloir IV 5.8 WI3 Winter. NWMJ issue 2

Whitehorse- *E.Face couloir. IV AI4 Nwmj. Issue 3

-*e.face unclimbed

-other winter potential

Witch Doctor Wall – Solaris IV 10b A2 6p NWMJ issue 1

 

Brown

Abiel Peak- Blind Date. Nwmj 1ssue 3

-NF Direct III WI4 nwmj issue 3

-NF Couloir

-It’s All-Der III AI4 nwmj issue 3

-Spindrift Daze III AI3+ NWMJ issue 4

*Acid Baby Spire – cc.com III 5.10+ 9p

Mt. Adams- Rusk Glacier Ice Cliff. IV AAJ 1979, brown fred

-victory ridge IV ice

Banks Lake Ice- old and new

Boola Boola Buttress- Thank you baby jesus. III 5.9 + NWMJ issue 3

-Black Velvet NWMH Issue 4 IV 5.10

-Yoder rt IV 5.11 brown fred

Cashmere Crags- Blockhouse up to 5p 10

-Mole up to 5.11 500’

-Dragon Teeth III 5.10

-Toketie Wall up to III 5.10 6p

-Lighthouse tower III 5.10

-Comet Spire III 5.9

Chair Peak – *NE Buttress. Cc.com

Colchuck Balanced Rock- *new route pot

-*Tempest Wall. Cc.com now free at 12b

Colchuck Peak- NE Butt, E.Face IV 10d. AAJ 1993

Crystal Lake Tower- SW Rib III 5.8 19p

D’Artanian Spire- S.Face IV 10c C1 NWMJ issue 4

Dragontail Peak- *Boving Rt. IV 10c. cc.com

*-NW Face cotter – bebbie IV Wi3 mixed

wasson-wilson IV WI3 mixed

*-dragontail maddnress IV 5.9 ice brown fred

*-dragonfly V 5.11 cc.com

-direct NE Butt IV

*-dragons of eden. Cc.com 1990 aaj, cc.com 12a V

-20 Sided Dihedral NWMJ issue 3 IV 5.10 A0

-Dragonscar NWMJ issue 4 IV 5.11R

*-NW face ice rt. Cc.com

Mt. Garfield – Infinate Bliss. Cc.com

*Ice route up infinite bliss

S.Rib- IV 5.10 brown fred

SE Face V 5.11

Plent of fa ground

Granite Mtn- 6p 5.11- NWMJ issue 4

Goose Egg Mtn- see teiton rock

Index Crag- many many hard aid lines

Mt. Index- North Norwegian Buttress VI 5.9 A3+

-S. Norwegian Buttress V 5.10 1989 burdo/white

-Middle Main Gulley V ice

Summit Traverse V 5.6

-E. Face Middle Peak V 5.7 A3 AAJ 1962

-*NF Middle 1981 AAJ

-*W. Face Main- Eve Dearborne. Ref aaj 1990, 1st ed cascade select

-Murphy’s Law NWMJ issue V ice

Bridge Creek Wall- rock rt

-Wet and wild Wi4 4-5p

Mt Kent- NF III M4 NWMJ issue 4

-other routes

Little Anapurna- Open Book III 5.10

Little Big Chief- IV 5.9 9p NWMJ issue 1

Little Snowpatch- Lizard Wall III 5.9 6p

McLellen- ice route?

Obscurly Enchanting Fur III 5.10+ NWMJ issue 4

Mt. Persis- ice route unclimbed

-Hexorcist, NF IV 5.11a

Porpoise Point- III 5.10

Prussik Peak- Lady Godiva IV 5.9 A3 AAJ 1975

-*Solid Gold

-Der Sportsmen III 5.11+ cascadeclimbers.com

-1984 S. Face III 5.10 AAJ 1986

Mt Rainier- *N. Mowich Headwall IV. Aaj 1969. brown fred

Liberty Wall Direct- IV+

Willis Wall- multiple routes IV-V ice/rock. Brown fred, aaj

Curtis Ridge- IV class 5 + aid 1958 aaj

Snoqualamie Mtn- *pineapple express. IV M6 5.8 WI3+ Nwmj issue 2

-blue moon variation m5+

Snow Creek Wall – *A Swing and a Prayer IV WI5 M6 NWMJ issue 4

-White Slabs and Country Club Ramp III Wi4-4

*Static Point – many long slab/crack rts

*Stobach Mtn Ice – old and new

Mt. Stuart--*NW Face of lower w. ridge. Gorillas in the mist. III 5.11-

-*NW Face couloir. IV ice

-*NE Face IV var 5.10+aid - 5.9

-*Winter ne Face 1978. brown fred

-*Blue moon in june. Ice. 1985 aaj

-*Lara Kellog Memorial. IV WI6 A0 NWMJ issue 5

Summit Chief Mtn – N.Face III AI3 NWMJ issue 1

-Alpine Chicken AI4+ 5.8 NWMJ issue 2

Tumwater Canyon long routes?

Wedge Mtn- NF ice. Brown fred

 

Olympics

Sawtooth Ridge Traverse V 5.7+ NWMJ issue 2

Mt Ellinor- Acres of Diamond 6p Wi3

 

Oregon

*Columbia River Gorge- many ice up to 6p. wi3-6, many unclimbed

-*Black Dagger III WI5+

-*Ainsworth Left III WI5+

-*Blackjack III WI3

-*Brave New World III WI5

-*Dodson IV WI4

Mt. Hood- *Black Spider. Great center drip unclimbed ice

-*Arachnaphobia IV 5.9 AI4

-*Black Widow III WI5+

-Castle crags ice rts

*Illumination Rock. *SW Rib Mixed 5.9 III

*April Insanity IV 5.9+ AI4+ M4+

*Rime Dogs III 5.8 AI3.

*Iron Maiden III 5.7 AI2

*Matterhorn – w. face routes, unclimbed butt?

*Baker City ice wall

Hamilton Mtn- *unclimbed ice face

Crown Pt – routes III hard aid or run out free

*Turkey Monster –

*Steins Pillar – III 11a

Wolf Rock- Barad Dur IV 5.9 A3

Beacon Rock- Steppenwolf IV 5.11+ A0

N.Face Theilson – winter pot

St. Peters Dome – III aid / runout free

Razorblade Pinnacle – up to IV A4

 

N.Cali

Battle Mtn- *plumbline 5.10 9p

Mt Hubris- *Tripple Crown 5.10d 6p

Castle Peak- *N.Face III 5.10 10p

-*E.Face IV 5.10d 10p

 

 

[tazz]

What doesn’t make the list: easier climbs (II or below, 5.7+ old school or below), well known classics

 

why is that? Is it just a walk in the park now days? Are you frowned upon or less a climber if you don't FA a 5.7 or more. I don't understand why anything FA is not put up. An FA is an FA and should be fairly documented right? hmmmm?

 

I am an id-jut...clue me in will ya.