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Steph_Abegg

[TR] Valhalla Range, British Columbia - Gimli, Niselheim, Asgard, Gladsheim 8/31/2009

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Trip: Valhalla Range, British Columbia - Gimli, Niselheim, Asgard, Gladsheim

 

Date: 8/31/2009

 

Trip Report:

In early August, I climbed the classic South Ridge of Gimli in the little-known Valhalla Range of British Columbia (click link for my trip report). This was a great route and I was impressed with the quality of the rock and the striking formations in the range. Thundershowers prevented any more climbing on this first trip, but less than a month later, I came back to explore deeper into the range. David Kiehl, another student living in Seattle, was a great partner for this trip. We spent 3 full days in the Valhallas, climbing 4 fun routes and enjoying the beauty of the area.

 

We climbed:

NE Buttress of Gimli

E Ridge of Niselheim

S Face of Asgard

W Ridge of "Little" Gladsheim

 

As usual, I've posted a full TR with lots of photos (too many probably) on my website:

http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/britishcolumbia/valhallas2

 

Here are a few photos:

 

The peaks of the Valhalla Range:

pano.jpg

 

NE Buttress of Gimli

IMG_0518croproute.jpg

 

E Ridge of Niselheim

IMG_8543croproute.jpg

 

S Face of Asgard

IMG_0403route.jpg

 

W Ridge of "Little" Gladsheim

IMG_8584route.jpg

 

Sunset from camp

IMG_8477pano.jpg

 

Star trails over camp (Exposure: 80min, f 4.5, ISO 400)

IMG_8755ps.jpg

 

Again, the link to the full TR with lots of photos (too many probably) on my website:

http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/britishcolumbia/valhallas2

Edited by Steph_Abegg

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Your "Little" Gladsheim is actually named the Trireme Wall. The ridge you climbed is rated 5.5 in the black guidebook.

Edited by G-spotter

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so the wall has a name... any routes though? Looks like some potential for a couple hard lines.

 

We were confused initially as to what was the SW face (and the corresponding routes) of Gladsheim, but it became clear once we were on the mountain. 5.5 for that ridge? We stayed as close to the ridgeline as possible, and the upper pitch (which went out on the face to the left a bit) was more difficult than 5.5

 

It would be cool to see the results of some strong 5.11+ climbers tackling the SW walls of Gladsheim

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Your "Little" Gladsheim is actually named the Trireme Wall.

Thanks for the clarification. It will forever be "Little" Gladsheim for me, but I added the correction to my TR!

 

The SW Face of Trireme Wall looks like it has some potential too....

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so which was your favorite route of the 4 done? The asguard one looks good.

 

My favorite route in the Valhallas thus far is the S Ridge of Gimli. But the S Face of Asgard is a close second. It's stellar ridge vs steep face climbing, so difficult to compare....

 

Lots of great rock up there to be climbed! Lack of beta adds to the adventure.

Edited by Steph_Abegg

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The SW face of Trireme has a "Valhallas 5.8". I've spent two weeks looking at the face and I think I have some idea where it goes. It finishes with the overhanging chimneys.

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The SW face of Trireme has a "Valhallas 5.8"

 

Nice. As the South face of Asgard proved for us, "Valhallas 5.8" can be some pretty heady leading, but super fun following

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I climbed the NW Buttress a couple month ago and it was mediocre. There are 2 good pitches on it. Both I would give a 5.7 (much easier than the first pitch SR). It starts with a bunch of easy pitches/simul climbing until you get around a corner anr are just left of the arete. The pitch up the arete past a fixed pin high up on the pitch is good. It was pretty dirty when we were on it and I'd be surprised if many people have climbed it in recent yrs. The climbing was somewhat run out and I cleaned many placements, including the anchor on a small ledge underneath the overhangs.

 

The pitch up from there is similar in difficulty but a bit shorter. Also dirty and some loose stuff.

 

The route does not make Gimli shine like some other routes, but if you have nothing better to do...

 

-Jan

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Nice TR... well put together and very complete. I also liked the route overlays and the panoramic shot of the range! Whatever the names are, whatever the grades are... nice job! :tup:

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