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[TR] Rainier - Kautz Glacier 8/24/2009


bgratias

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Trip: Rainier - Kautz Glacier

 

Date: 8/24/2009

 

Trip Report:

My brother Ryan and I went up the Kautz this weekend. Lots of scree until the glacier, and then there are quite a few open crevasses. Nothing unmanageable though. We simuled the bottom ice step and climbed the second step in 4 pitches. We descended the DC.

 

We were in thick fog until around 7500 feet.

[img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8230012.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Getting ready to see the sun for the first time. [img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/IMG_4310.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coming out of the clouds.

[img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8230017.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the way to camp below Camp Hazard, around 10300 feet. [img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8230041.jpg[/img]

[img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8230054.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The rappel notch - More of a downclimb than a rappel. [img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8230067.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Second ice step from the bottom, middle and top. [img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8230068.jpg[/img]

[img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8230074.jpg[/img]

[img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8230081.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Crevasses on the upper Kautz - Lots are open, but snow bridges are available for most. [img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/IMG_4345.jpg[/img]

[img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8230089.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ryan on the Summit.

[img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8240093.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ryan Descending the DC.

[img:left]http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/bgratias/P8240095.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Used 5 screws

 

Approach Notes:

Lots of scree up the fan

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We didn't see anyone between leaving Glacier Vista and Ingraham Flats, which was nice. we didn't see anyone on the DC either though, probably because we summited at 2:30pm after leaving high camp at 4 (don't let our youth deceive you - we are slow.) Total Time: 23 hours

 

It was pretty dry, but we were able to stay on snow above the ice steps.

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