John Frieh Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Trip: Incredible Hulk - Red Dihedral Date: 8/16/2009 Trip Report: A little overdue but nevertheless: granite moderates down south. Left town Friday night... drove most of the night and crashed out for a few hours of in a baseball field in Placerville around 5 am. Got rolling again mid morning and hit Lovers Leap for a quickie before continuing on to the Sierras. Everything was packed except for Traveler's Buttress. 50 classic? Sure... why not. Daniel on p1 Style with a capital S Apparently handlebars make offwidths easier...? [video:youtube] Pitch 3 Daniel taking it to the top After traveling Traveler's we pointed it SE for Bridgeport. A quick burger stop in Nelson which may or may not have been a good idea (sidenote: Admins we need a fart gramelin). After locating the trailhead and free camping we sacked out for a few prior to our 4 am departure... supertacos makes the approach sound tricky so we wanted to allow plenty of time for the approach. We lucked out and were first on the route Incredible? Yes. We opted for the Red Dihedral as this was our first trip in here and we wanted to do our homework for future trips Early on The Red Dihedral [video:youtube] Don't make me angry. You wouldn't like me when I'm angry. HULK ANGRY! (or maybe just stoked ) The final pitch ends with a tunnel through just below the summit... Daniel sneaking through Then it was my turn... let's just say Brock and Daniel had their doubts... "Dude I don't know if you're going to fit John" [video:youtube] I have the nicest climbing partners :laf: All in all good times down south. Can't wait to go back Approach Notes: zoom zoom + supertacos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 F'ing awesome, John! The Leap will always be one of my most cherished climbing memories. Such good stuff there! The Dihedral looks like beautiful climbing. Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 endless back there! who got to lead the red dihedral?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 fuck the climbing, i can't see that sweet 'stache and not feel trenmdously jealous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Nice trip John and co! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Nice! Did you ever hear about when Croft Soloed this route and almost got blown off the upper section by freak wind? Sounded scary! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 awesome pictures. that rock is so cool looking the rope catches your fall better when you can place pro. thanks john! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted August 27, 2009 Author Share Posted August 27, 2009 the rope catches your fall better when you can place pro. I like running it out on moderate terrain... I have found it helps me remain calm on ice and/or alpine routes where gear isn't readily available for whatever reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 'stache jam???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 the rope catches your fall better when you can place pro. I like running it out on moderate terrain... I have found it helps me remain calm on ice and/or alpine routes where gear isn't readily available for whatever reason. This TR is a thing of true beauty. I've looked at it 4 or 5 times now. Great pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 That is one sweet looking piece of rock, nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowlander Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 (edited) My wife and I just climbed this route yesterday. Most incredible piece of alpine stone. Maybe it was the altitude or it was me, but the dihedral pitch was rather tiring. Thought the jamming was more difficult than the bulge finish. Did you find/climb the splitter 10a on the 7th pitch? That piece of rock deserves numerous visits. Edited August 29, 2009 by Lowlander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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