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cocaine crack, meatgrinder tr


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had some fun climbing cocaine and meatgrinder with a couple friends this weekend.

 

I love to play with my canon SLR, and with 3 people there is lots of time for pictures.

 

Craig is a friend of my son. My son usually works weekends, so I've been climbing a little more with Craig. I just taught Craig to climb in May, and he on-sighted Meatgrinder clean. His new nickname is "mr natural".

 

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Meatgrinder is such a classic Icicle 10a. There is a rest every 12 feet. The crux is 5 feet above a ledge you could sleep on. My kind of climb.

 

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Me, just above the meatgrinder crux

 

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This is Steve, a friend from Edgeworksclimbing.com. He wanted to put some scratches in his new trad rack. Here he is belaying me up Cocaine Crack, 10a, icicle creek buttress:

 

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I brought Steve up first, who brought my camera and took over belaying so I could shoot. This is Craig following. Cocaine has a Yosemite feel. It's kind of on a shield of flat, steep rock...a few pitches up too.

 

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The exit from this roof is dicey. All the jugs dissappear and the feet are 1/8" flakes on a vertical wall. I was so pumped from the finger crack that I chickened out and french free'd it. Craig cruised it all cleanly.

 

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The views are awesome up there:

 

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From the top of cocaine you finish up on R&D. The belay at the top of R&D is a couple huge washing machine sized boulders on a sloping ramp, which may or may not be secure. I was able to back them up with this purple mastercam between my legs. Craig liked it so much he took this photo of me and my anchor:

 

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