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KaskadskyjKozak

[TR] Black Peak - NE Ridge 8/23/2009

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Trip: Black Peak - NE Ridge

 

Date: 8/23/2009

 

Trip Report:

Mountainguy01 and I were planning on climbing Triumph this w/e, but got nixed on the permit when we showed up at the Marblemount RS Sat. We considered a bunch of one- and two-day options, but settled on the NE ridge of Black, which I have wanted to do for some time.

 

We started up the trail around noon on Sat, and made quick work of the approach to Wing Lake. The talus field was less tedious than I remembered it from my trip up Corteo late season last year.

 

Boulder hopping before Lewis Lake:

Black_Peak_-_Aug_2009028.JPG

 

View of objective from Wing Lake:

Black_Peak_-_Aug_2009035.JPG

 

We had expected temps in the mid-40's based on the point forecast on NOAA. We had a chillier night than that:

 

BlackPk_NERidge_-_23_Aug_09_31_.JPG

 

It took about 1.5 hours to ascend the talus, snowfield, and scrambling to get to the ridge. Mountainguy01 opted to leave his 'pons on his back. I put mine on which put me 10 minutes behind him. The snow was bulletproof.

 

BlackPk_NERidge_-_23_Aug_09_52_.JPG

 

We roped up on the col, doubling up a 60 m thin rope (1/2 of a double) and using it as a 30 m lead rope. We started off with running belays, pitched out about 3 pitches, then finished with running belays. Somehow I got to lead the best pitches (5.easy with cool exposure). We were a bit slow - taking 6 hours from camp to summit.

 

We climbed in real alpine conditions - it was finger-numbing cold, especially on the N side of the ridge. We had on long underwear tops, hard shells, and gloves, and carried our packs up and over. Good times!

 

Mountainguy01 leading:

Black_Peak_-_Aug_2009007.JPG

 

KK leading:

BlackPk_NERidge_-_23_Aug_09_57_.JPG

 

View down to Mountainguy01 on ridge:

Black_Peak_-_Aug_2009013.JPG

 

View down to KK on the ridge:

BlackPk_NERidge_-_23_Aug_09_62_.JPG

 

KK scrambling to the summit:

BlackPk_NERidge_-_23_Aug_09_64_.JPG

 

View up the descent route:

Black_Peak_-_Aug_2009025.JPG

 

We had the summit to ourselves - most of the folks ascended the S ridge and had already started down when we had arrived. We were passed by one solo climber near the false summit. He said he took 3.5 hours to summit (Wing Lake to summit).

 

The descent was quick (75-80 min) but unpleasant in a couple of spots - most notably for the first 100-200 feet from the col left of the S ridge. The hike out went quickly (under 2.5 hours). This climb is definitely doable as a day trip if you are so inclined.

 

 

Gear Notes:

helmet, 30 m rope, trekking poles, aluminum 'pons (optional but useful), light alpine rack with lots of double slings.

 

Approach Notes:

Follow cairns through Talus to Lewis Lake. Traverse around right side of lake.

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Nice pictures! I did this route a few years ago and think it is much better as an overnighter...more time to savor the views. Nice TR man.

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Nice. I'm looking forward to doing this next month.

 

cool. you gonna knock it out car-to-car?

 

I'm doing it as a mellow overnighter. I likes me some camping.

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Nice report, thats back on the list, thanks. I need to recon that dark tower to the west of Black.

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another clean up peak for me...don't ask... :noway:

 

been bugging my partners or perspective partners about this route for 2 months! just ask poor birddog! hahah!

 

I met up with Radek and Shirley at wing lake after they finished the route and i some-what finished the scramble route....don't ask... :noway: told ya folks 2006 was bad for me... :blush:

Ever since then i swore I would finish this peak by this route!

anyways thanks for the fresh beta and great pics!! no need for axe or pons! nice!

 

 

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Nice. I'm looking forward to doing this next month.

 

cool. you gonna knock it out car-to-car?

 

I'm doing it as a mellow overnighter. I likes me some camping.

 

Yeah, it's a great place to camp for sure!

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Nice. I'm looking forward to doing this next month.

 

cool. you gonna knock it out car-to-car?

 

I'm doing it as a mellow overnighter. I likes me some camping.

 

Yeah, it's a great place to camp for sure!

 

The camping looks beautiful, but too many skeeters, at least they were around in the morning when we got up there.

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Beckey may not give this one huge detail in the guide but he sure talks it up in person, and it looks like a good one.

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The camping looks beautiful, but too many skeeters, at least they were around in the morning when we got up there.

 

We had pretty much zero skeeters. And no black flies either. :-)

 

 

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I don’t recommend Triumph car to car. Jaime and I did it in 22 hours a couple of years ago and I was a freakin wreck afterwards.

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I don’t recommend Triumph car to car. Jaime and I did it in 22 hours a couple of years ago and I was a freakin wreck afterwards.

 

We were going to climb Triumph as an overnighter and assumed day 2 would be brutal.

 

Black Peak is totally doable in a day, but the camp is nice and hard to pass up on.

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