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marc_leclerc

[TR] South Nesakwatch Spire - West Face - Dairyland 8/22/2009

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Trip: South Nesakwatch Spire - West Face - Dairyland

 

Date: 8/22/2009

 

Trip Report:

Me and my buddy Lorne made a day trip of the superb 'Dairyland' route on the South Nesakwatch Spire and it was amazing. We climbed it as 5 pitches and 4 of them were superb. The final splitter is the best pitch I have climbed in the mountains and was on par, in my opinion, with famous pitches like Exaperator or the Split Pillar! The crux pitch has a few plants on it that could be pulled out but is still one of the best too. I'm going to keep the spirit of adventure and not give away a pitch-by-pitch description of the route for all to see on this page. We had to discover the route for ourselves, I knew where it started and ended and that somewhere it has a 5.11a pitch but that was all. I could make a desription and post a download to it for people who really want to know exactly what they will be climbing... but anyways, go climb it because it is phenomenal!

 

Gear Notes:

We had cams to a No. 3 Camalot. A No. 4 could be nice a the end. Doubles from fingers to wide hands, purple (0) Metolius was nice to have. We brought 8 draws and a few slings and that was fine.

 

Approach Notes:

Up the Rexford trial to the base of the route... about 2 hours... look out for wasps just past the logging cut.

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what is the point of this trip report? why bother posting at all if you're not going to talk about the route?

 

 

 

to tell everybody to go climb it because its F**king awesome....

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This route is best left undescribed. The route is so easy to follow; so why rob the next climber of its mystery? Nice send Marc, we did this a month or so ago and had just as pleasurable of a time. Did you all take the left or right variation on the third pitch? oops might have been too much beta reveal there ;] Nesakwatch spires is a place a weeks visit wouldnt pay justice too.

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We had to discover the route for ourselves, I knew where it started and ended and that somewhere it has a 5.11a pitch but that was all.

 

I like the spirit of this. But I don't know where the route starts and ends. Want to tell us? Maybe that crux pitch will clean up.

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This route is best left undescribed. The route is so easy to follow; so why rob the next climber of its mystery? Nice send Marc, we did this a month or so ago and had just as pleasurable of a time. Did you all take the left or right variation on the third pitch? oops might have been too much beta reveal there ;] Nesakwatch spires is a place a weeks visit wouldnt pay justice too.

 

We took he righthand route... It was awesome! One of the coolest sections of the routes.

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I like the spirit of this. But I don't know where the route starts and ends. Want to tell us? Maybe that crux pitch will clean up.

 

Dru's overlay photo is in the 2009 edition of Fred Beckey's red cover guidebook.

Also easy to find online via google.

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What were the bugs like?

 

Dunno I've never been to the bugs.

 

Jk.. the only bugs we encountered were wasps with an attitude just beyond the end of the clearcut. Beware.

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Thats it? you guys were lucky up there then. We got to "base camp" aka the amphitheater and were inundated with hoards of mosquitoes.

 

The right variation is stellar for sure! When we went up it, I had to do a bit of gardening to protect though... That was sketch, gardening on 5.11 Almost thought Crocs might have been appropriate at times. Good to hear its cleaning up. Hope it stays illusive for future onsights!

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We took the right hand variation too. There is a little greenery but it seems like the fingers and face holds avoid the bulk of the plantlife. Great pitch, and that last pitch...WOW! Does anyone know what the left variation to the crux pitch is like?

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We took the right hand variation too. There is a little greenery but it seems like the fingers and face holds avoid the bulk of the plantlife. Great pitch, and that last pitch...WOW! Does anyone know what the left variation to the crux pitch is like?

 

haha.. I posted beta on the crux pitch.. got the answer I was looking for and erased the beta. Now you have to figure out the crux for yourself :P

Edited by marc_leclerc

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Yes, sounds like what we did. I remember looking back down trying to spy the other side and couldnt tell if it was hands or chimney. I guess we'll have to try that variation next time, except it would be hard to pass up the cool stemming, finger pitch.

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what is the point of this trip report? why bother posting at all if you're not going to talk about the route?

 

Have you been paying attention to anything on this zany site?!?

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