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AlpinistAndrew

Ice Tool Recommendation

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It's 90 degrees out and I'm thinking about ice climbing, hmm..So, I've sold my old tools (Pre-07 vipers) and am looking for my next set. These will be my one and only set. I mostly do moderate ice and some "alpine" (however that can be defined in the East). The three tools I have been looking at are the Nomic, Viper, and Reactor. I've been leaning towards the nomic. I've used it on easy ice before (WI2/3) and it seemed to work well and I definitely like the feel. I like the big grip of the reactor, because usually when I'm climbing out here it is REALLY cold (but it seems that the nomic might be able to accommodate larger gloves). Don't really know much about the NEW vipers, but they seem decent. Every now and then I'll probably use it on harder single pitch climbs, so it won't be strictly used on easy/mod. stuff. I did quite a bit of research and after trying to extrapolate useful information from a multitude of reviews, I felt a bit more conflicted. So, I'm seeing what folks thought on here. I appreciate any feedback with regards to these tools, personal experience etc. Thanks.

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I see you're in the East? So basically just straight up ice climbing will be in your future. I'd go with the Nomics - such a great fun tool for pure ice - it just gets better when the ice gets steeper. I've tried the Reactors and new Vipers... the BD tools have a different swing than Petzl and I thought the grip on the Reactors was a little bulky.

You can adjust the lower pinky rest on the Nomics for hand size.

 

What "alpine" are you planning on doing out there? Not really much alpine out there that would benefit from a hammer or a spike... unless you plan on heading to Katahdin during the winter - which I recommend and advise especially if you're going to be in the EC for a while. Go, stay in the South Basin at Chimney Pond.

South_Basin2.JPG

 

Also, take a trip up to Lake Willoughby this winter - enjoy ;)

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once you go black you never go back. nomics all the way.

 

i climbed some sweet millwell ice today too, so you're not the only one thinking about the coming winter!

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Last winter some people were speculating that petzl may be coming out with a hammer/adze version of the nomic. Anyone heard anything more about that?

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Thanks for the recommendations. It basically reaffirms what I already knew internally. Though I must say the "cheater-stick" remark definitely sold me. Nomics it is!

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Last winter some people were speculating that petzl may be coming out with a hammer/adze version of the nomic. Anyone heard anything more about that?

 

We'll see them at the sport shows first...nothing yet so won't be this year but something new "will be" coming in time.

 

Petzl has no reason to come up with anything new when everyone is (still) just trying to just match the performance of a Nomic. Looks to me like Petzl is safe for a season or two yet.

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My 2 cents... I have found the best thing I can do for being as proficient as I can be alpine climbing is get as much time/practice as I can on my alpine rig. Specifically if I usually alpine climb on horizontal dual point 12 point crampons and straight shaft ice tools then I am going to ice climb/crag on the same rig.

 

Dont get me wrong: I love my nomics and I love vertical monopoint pons and I use them from time to time. But if alpine something is your goal you should think twice about having your weapon of choice be a pair of nomics.

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