DPS Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 (edited) Trip: Mt Shuksan - Price Glacier Date: 8/15/2009 Trip Report: jesselillis and climbed Price Glacier over the weekend. We approached under cloudy skies and got very wet from wet brush. We found a great campsite on a rock bench right below the glacier. We woke up the next day to clearer skies. By 6:30 we were climbing. We climbed a lot of ice, some it very steep. We simu-climbed some of the easier snow fields. At one point a serac calved off right above Jesse at a belay. Fortunately most of the debris went into a crevasse and Jesse as unhurt. We summited a little over 12 1/2 hours after starting. We had hoped to get below Winnie's Slide to bivi, but darkness over took us and we bivied on the glacier. The next day we woke and were on the move by 6 AM. Then, displaying the kind of brillance I am known for, I led us down the wrong way. We survived the descent and made it out to the car 12 hours (!) later. I retrieved my bike from the Lake Ann trailhead parking lot and rode down to the car then came back and picked up Jesse. It is a wonder I didn't get lost somewhere in between. All in all a great trip with a super strong partner. Log crossing Rock slab bivi Price Glacier Close up of Price Glacier A steep pitch High on the route Just before nearly getting clobbered by serac fall Looking down the summit pyramid ridge The inobvious descent route Gear Notes: Used 6 screws and 2 pickets Approach Notes: Edited August 18, 2009 by danielpatricksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Nice work! I thought it might be a bit late in the year for this route, but you did it. Congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Nice work getting it done! I'm glad nobody got injured by the falling serac. Looking forward to the photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Hells yeah man! Sketchy on the serac How was the upper section? (I have read reports of it being an ice climb, others reporting a couple of rock pitches) I tried to get on this route two years ago and was turned away by avalanches. Glad to see that the route is getting some travel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 We were able to climb ice the entire way. No rock climbing necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 Photos added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Nice job, Dan! This is the kind of shit I need to get motivated again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Good work Dan! Ha I've been looking into doing this in the next couple weeks...too late? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 way to go, dan! Nice year for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 do work!! didn't know the price was still in...especially with all the heat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 Good work Dan! Ha I've been looking into doing this in the next couple weeks...too late? It will probably still go. Bear in mind that there was a lot of route finding and some very steep pitches. And it is exposed to serac fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbcbd Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 Dan, nice stuff, man! So, does it uphold it's classic status? ...a sea of seracs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 So, does it uphold it's classic status? Good question. Mt Shuksan is a pretty classic peak and the Price Glacier is a very good ice climb, so yeah, I would say it deserves its classic status. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigeo Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 Good on ya, Dan and Jesse, but are you sure that is the Price Glacier? It looks a little different from the pictures in 50 Classic Climbs. Where are the "delicate snow flutings"? Must be global warming. How long is the bike ride between trailheads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 I am pretty darn sure we climbed the Price Glacier. The bike ride is 13 miles which took 39 minutes riding not fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 Jebus, Dan, be careful out there! Very nice photography. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 Very nice photography. Thanks! Coming from you that is a huge compliment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 maniacs! way to give the Almighty Bog the Big Finger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Is the road washed out? Can you drive to the regular park spot just before the creek? Sweet climb. This route has a mythical status and is one of only five others in our range that made the 50 Classics of North America list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Wicked. It looks out of shape to me. Conditions should be better in the fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 Is the road washed out? Can you drive to the regular park spot just before the creek? We were able to drive the road all the way to the Nooksack Cirque trailhead which is the end of the road. I can't say what is up the Hannegan Road though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 wow, the most broken glacier I have ever seen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 Staring at this route over a couple days this summer, I'm impressed that folks still climb it. Frankly, it scared the hell out of me. It looks like Dan and Jesse climbed it in similar conditions to what we saw this July, maybe worse. Bold, and a wee bit lucky. That is an ascent that I'm sure you won't forget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted September 21, 2013 Author Share Posted September 21, 2013 Staring at this route over a couple days this summer, I'm impressed that folks still climb it. Frankly, it scared the hell out of me. It looks like Dan and Jesse climbed it in similar conditions to what we saw this July, maybe worse. Bold, and a wee bit lucky. That is an ascent that I'm sure you won't forget. We nearly got taken out by rockfall low on the route and serac fall high up. I feel like a guardian angel was watching out for us on that one and I think we were more than a little lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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