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Would you use this sling


Mark O'Neal

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I was using this Dyneema sling to backup a top rope anchor on kind of a goofy setup. The sling went through a horizontal crack and got this damage whilst I flailed about mightily in vain to climb the route. There doesn't appear to be any damage to the sling other than to the black cloth. My thought is that the black cloth isn't really doing anything. But a couple of guys at the crag were like "no way I'd use that dude!"

 

Would you climb on it?

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If it's just the tail cover that got torn then hit it with a wrap of sport tape and you're good to go. If it's the actual sling proper that's torn toss it. The other thing to be aware of with skinny' Mammut slings is they're only good for two or three seasons of reasonable use and then they should be tossed as they will have lost around half their tested strength at that point.

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The black cloth is just there to tell you who made it and to cover the raw end. It's simply a tag. Because of that I've put notches on all my black Mammut tags so I can distinguish my slings from others'.

If there was damage to any of the actual Dyneema then I'd retire it - I marked my retired one with marker and use it as a gear sling in the closet, where it can still hang out with it's able-bodied brethren.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
The other thing to be aware of with skinny' Mammut slings is they're only good for two or three seasons of reasonable use and then they should be tossed as they will have lost around half their tested strength at that point.

 

Wow... really? I did not know that about the slings.

 

Good luck (poster) with the sling use, hard to tell from picture if sling is damaged.

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When in doubt, throw it out. Always consider slings expendable, your life and health not so. And yes, for cragging, where weight isn't so much of a factor, beef it up, go old school both on slings and rope, especially when working a project where you expect to be taking falls, use a rope protector and pulley-type locking biner for toproping, especially over any edges, heavy-duty redundant anchors. Save the skinny slings for backcountry/wilderness alpinism.

 

In his great book "On Snow and Rock", Gaston Rebuffat emphasizes repeatedly the vital importance of gear being of the finest quality, and in perfect condition before you climb, and of constantly checking it, especially remembering to pay attention to it during the climb, not just before and after. Have a long and happy climbing career.

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  • 2 weeks later...
If you gotta ask throw it in the trash.
Or, just give it to Ivan, that crazy bastard will use it for a few more decades!

i make up for it by never falling :)

 

the oldest i'm using these days are only, uh, 7 years i think? i just bought a dozen new ones though, so i can use the shiny ones when i'm feeling freaky :P

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