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first ascent [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - The Scoop III+ 5.11c (FA) 8/9/2009

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The Scoop saw a bit of action this week. On tuesday Jens and Max repeated the climb with Jens making an onsight ascent. On wednesday Blake and I climbed the route after climbing The Tempest earlier in the day for a double scoop link-up.


All parties were truly impressed with the route. The scoop is one of the best pitches in the range with 55m of sustained, steep, thuggish, rockclimbing. Equally impressive were the two finishing pitches which were delicate and thought-provoking. Nice job you guys, stylee route put up in impecabble style!

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Just wanted to echo Sol's comments. All 4 of us found the Scoop to be excellent, put it on the list! Very different styles of climbing on 2 consecutive pitches up there. The 'Scoop' pitch is strenuous and steep. Perhaps the hardest pitch yet freed on any CBR route? It's probably no harder than 5.11a at any point, but has no rests, few good jams, and as a tougher tick than ROTC, it's 5.11c and *** all day long. The pitch shouldn't keep anyone off the route though. It has perfect gear the whole way.

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