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gertlush

[TR] Tantalus/Dione - Tantalus - N. Ridge/Dione - Standard route 8/1/2009

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Trip: Tantalus/Dione - Tantalus - N. Ridge/Dione - Standard route

 

Date: 8/1/2009

 

Trip Report:

Dropped off at the col on Friday night...staggered out to the road on Sunday. In hindsight a heli pickup may not have been a bad idea....

 

Pretty straightforward scrambling on Tantalus plus a little roped stuff when the exposure got too much. Found the descent on Tantalus a bit convuluted. Stayed too high & we were level with the Witch's Tooth, then rapped down a gully all the way to ledges at the bottom which were full of rocks. Had to climb heinous gully and loose rock then traverse all the way out the base of Dione before getting on snow.

 

Did Dione and walked out on Sunday...that sucked. My knees still hurt.

 

Terrain_3_1.JPGTightrope_4_1.JPGDione_6_1.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

One axe, we brought two but didn't use the second. The pickets were handy.

 

Approach Notes:

Heli - $195 all in for drop off at col on North ridge.

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More pics

 

51426811.jpg

North ridge with Tantalus in the clouds

 

99691134.jpg

Sean on lead approaching summit

 

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That's one of those trips I've wanted to do ever since I got a copy of Alpine Select, thanks for the TR. Sounds like you'd recommend it, eh?

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Nice one!

 

I did the same trip about a decade ago as our first heli access trip. The Witch's Tooth presented us with some issues as well, but after much deliberating managed to rap into the correct gulley.

 

The hike out was a trudge and involved the worst insect attacks I have ever experienced! Good for you guys to keep it on foot all the way. When we got to the cable crossing the boatman was passing us and offered a lift and a couple of cold beers - to this day the best beer of my life.

 

T

 

 

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I'd definitely recommend the trip. It covers a lot of interesting ground, particularly on the way out. This shot from Dione shows the route on the Dione glacier to the col which provides the exit down to Lake Lovely water. I really liked the sort of 'classic' mountaineering feel; lots of 4th class, snow, glaciers, routefinding, judging weather and conditions.

 

Route_2_11.JPG

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Two bivi's, although that Haberl hut sure looks nice. That old red tit hut looks like it has some character!

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