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squamish this weekend


thelawgoddess

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Thanks for the better topo of the Ultimate Everything, the one I've got is the saddest thing I've ever seen. I was expecting to get lost looking for it.

Gonna go do it on Sat..

Rock on is great. It's one of the funnest climbes I've ever done, if it's not wet. The it's french free all the way...

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quote:

Originally posted by fern:

however the variation finish which traverses far left at the start of the sixth pitch and continues up blueberry and mud choked chimmenies sports ONE thrilling move of 5.10 lichen slab. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
-[laf]

Dont forget to gaze in awe at the hibachi on the 12th pitch of the variation which was carried up to center summit sometime in the era of stubby beer bottles and then thrown from the top!

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quote:

Originally posted by texplorer:

Sless-E, Sless-E, Sless-E I can hardly wait. Do you ever get so worked up your slobbering at the mouth. Probably not ya sporty wankers.
[Wazzup]

 

[rockband]

Breakin the law, breakin the law

[rockband]

Hopefully you will have that same level of excitement while riding on the bike by headlamp.

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quote:

Originally posted by glacier:

Hey, LG, did you make the Spankers show?

naw, i wussed out and went to bed early so i could get up at 6am and go climbing. i've seen them the last three times they came to town, though, and have lots of their cd's. they are spankeriffic as all heck. don't ya think? [big Grin]

 

(and do you really kill people for pay?)

 

trask, i do definitely want to learn some aid climbing, but first i want to learn how to solo lead. [big Grin]

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Anybody ever stop in at Seal Cove on the way up or back from Squish? Just spent a couple of days up there (weather was fine - few minutes of rain, then cleared.) Spent yesterday afternoon at Seal Cove for some cragging. Five nice face climbs (bolted with only very small rack needed) perched right above the ocean. Sun, surf, seals, swimming, and climbs with easy grades. What more could one want?

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the Ultimate Everything could be renamed a Little Bit of Everything...still a nice way to bag a lot of friendly graded pitches with some good moves -the .10b traverse pitch at the end is a total go, super fun with decent pro and positive holds. definitely a nice option to the crowds bottlenecked on the short crux of the face climb.

 

way, way worth it: Backsack .8 -a variation on P2 of Sunshine Chimney Centre at the Campground Wall. 5 minutes in flip flops had us at the base of some truly fun climbing in a way cool setting.

 

getting colder at nights, campground traffic seems like it's starting to thin out...

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the route has been getting lots of attention lately, and along with it plenty of traffic. we spent as much time waiting around as we did climbing. the route is a long meandering mostly bolted line with a few gear placements, short pitches and some scattered fun moves, but far from the instant classic i was led to believe from the hype. any day spent on the chief is a good one in my opinion, but if you've already got a hit list i wouldn't put this one at the top instead of something else. like angel's crest, for example, which has pretty short cruxes and great position.

 

[ 09-03-2002, 02:20 AM: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

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