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darstog

[TR] Quoddy Head State Park (reconnaissance), Lubec, ME - Various 7/29/2009

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Trip: Quoddy Head State Park (reconnaissance), Lubec, ME - Various

 

Date: 7/29/2009

 

Trip Report:

Easternmost Crag in the US.

It was an extraordinarily wet summer in Downeast Maine.

After days and days of rain, I took the family (and a couple of my daughter's friends) on a short dayhike to Quoddy Head State Park. I had heard rumors of amazing, 100' sea cliffs and the legendary Mainiac (unrepeated 5.14?, 5.13c?, 5.impossible?) and a number of other climbs. Here are some photos. Maybe somebody has visited and has more beta and can comment. There's very little info on the web. Next year I hope to return with a rope, climbing partners of age, and some better weather.

We were only able to hike maybe 1 of the 2 miles of sea cliffs (the 5 year-old got tired and it was raining). There may be more cliffs. There may not be. It was wet.

 

East side of largest crag I saw:

CIMG1656.JPG

 

West side of largest crag I saw:

CIMG1646.JPG

 

This could be 5.11. This could be 5.14. It was very wet.

CIMG1653.JPG

 

Cave below face. Climbable when dry?

CIMG1654.JPG

 

A smaller crag W of the previous pictures:

CIMG1658.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Slings for trees.

 

Approach Notes:

Easy-breezy. Enter Quoddy Head SP. Take immediate R fork. Park in gravel lot. Hike E along coastline. Go when not wet.

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Ah cool shots. Just talked to my pops and he said it rained 12 of the 14 days he was up in Maine this summer. Wettest spring/summer they have had in years.

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I was living in Maine for 15 years, and never heard of anyone climbing up in those part, but you never know. There was an older generation of backwoods climbers that never recorded anything.

 

To me thoses cliff don't look that nice. If you want some good steep seaside climbing go check out Great Head on Mt. Desert Island, though refer to the tide charts and weather reports before commiting. I know of at least one death there due to tide. As for the climbs there is supposedly a 5.13/14 a few aid line and the easiest climb is a single 5.9, everything else is 10 and above.

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I've climbed the area before when I was in high school. The routes are rather difficult  in the area and people are not permitted to climb there to my knowledge, but it's a great time if you get the chance to try; definitely not for beginners.

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