Frenchy Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Teanaway ridge is warm, dont lie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newdawnfades Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Really, trying to rehearse 25 feet of climbing on a 2000ft alpine route with a longish approach/descent is missing the forest for the trees. Climbing in similar styles as crux sections is pretty standard prep and, not to mention the obvious, smart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 The last pitch of Godforsaken Land on the squaw is similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 (edited) To the original poster: I would suggest Damnation Crack on Castle Rock is more similar to the Gendarme than any of the previous suggestions. If not, go climb it anyway, it'll be good for your Gendarme project. Edit: except Godforsaken Land, haven't done it... Edited August 8, 2009 by Otto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 P1 on gendarme i second what has already been said. P2: 15ft, solid fist jams feet and feet stacks than you've got a rest and the difficulties are done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shannonpahl Posted August 10, 2009 Author Share Posted August 10, 2009 Feet stacks - now that sounds like a great tip, thanks! Did GM today, P1, P2 and the start of P3 is fun, the upper crack on P3 was hard (just got to find a more efficient way of climbing that crack). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Um, how about lead a bunch of routes with a 15 pound backpack until that starts to feel comfortable. Or practice clawing (A0, french freeing) your way up some harder routes so you know how to get yourself through a tough spot. THe benefits of such a practice cannot be understated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Did someone say feet stacks? Pigeon Spire, Cooper-Kor, pitch 1 Briefly considered a layback. Settled on feet stacks and arm bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shannonpahl Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 nice example of feet stacks. A0, etc ... well practised. Agreed, "The benefits of such a practice cannot be understated" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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