Lafayette Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Trip: Mt Adams - Mazama Glacier and Headwall Date: 7/22/2009 Trip Report: I climbed with a group of five. Sven, and Steve, the most experienced were on the first rope and explored the route through the crevasses. I led the second rope, with Cory, and Monte behind me. Just as we were trying to fall asleep at the isolated Sunrise Camp (8300') we were surprised by 70 (not kidding) church camp kids between the ages of 13-16. The adolescent squawking had us awake before the alarm went off. Leaving camp we roped up as soon as we hit the Mazama Glacier a little after midnight. With full packs we planned to make the summit and descend the south ridge. The weather was very warm, I would not have wanted to leave later and encountered the crevasses when they were softer. Midway up the glacier we encountered at least a dozen, large crevasses. Five of which necessitated small leaps of faith. In the dark finding the easiest route was quite difficult. Rope troubles caused the second rope to slow down, and I had to search for the path taken. The route follows along the right side of the Mazama glacier. Taking detours around crevasses it stays mostly along the rock ridge. By the time we reached the height of the Castle, we were hit by stong pre-sunrise wind. We moved fast up the gradually steeper terrain until we arrived at the Mazama Headwall. It is only one rope length, but the overall angle approaches 80 degrees. The route stays left along a shorter stretch of the headwall, but misses two large crevasses. While steep, it is deeply suncupped. This makes for large 'stairs' but I question the ability of anyone to arrest on that type of terrain. Lead group placed two screws, I added a picket. Sven belayed me from the top of the wall. Once there we finally dropped our heavy packs and followed the trail to the summit. I hope this TR helps, it is my first attempt at writing one. Leave early, avoid the crevasses and enjoy your climb. Gear Notes: axe, rope, crampons. Used two ice screws and two pickets on the headwall. Approach Notes: Please consult other TR's on the well marked route to Sunrise camp. FYI, running water at Sunrise. Beautiful location with Klickitat ice fall and the castle to the right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lafayette Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 I'd just like to add that around 5 am I saw a fantastic meteor enter the atmosphere. I was facing up slope, and thought that somebody behind me was taking a picture with a flash. Turning there was shooting star hanging visible for a few seconds before splitting in two and flaming out. Curious if anybody else was out late that night and also saw it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 I'd just like to add that around 5 am I saw a fantastic meteor enter the atmosphere. I was facing up slope, and thought that somebody behind me was taking a picture with a flash. Turning there was shooting star hanging visible for a few seconds before splitting in two and flaming out. The first thought that strikes me is that you (possibly) witnessed a piece of the Perseid meteor shower. Comes around every year at this time, and is one of the biggest/brightest/strongest light shows in the lower 48. It's always nice to be in the high mountains when they come along. I used to plan my higher summits around the regular meteor showers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBo6 Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 How did the church kids do? I think one was a friend of my brother's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godskid5 Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 did you guys get any pics up there?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lafayette Posted March 28, 2010 Author Share Posted March 28, 2010 (edited) Testing a photo post Edited March 28, 2010 by whoiswillhockett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 Serious Suncups! The pic was worth the wait, bet you left yer skis at home or in the car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 De je vu... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.