KaskadskyjKozak Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 eventually, your "bolts everywhere" standard is going to be cut off by legal means. What about a "bolts someplaces" standard? That's what I am comfortable with, and you? CascadeBolters.com is on its way out Just how many folks here are actually putting in bolts? All the moderators? Just Bill Coe? I certainly have never put one in (nor ever plan to) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I have placed about 150 bolts in my time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Consider....... "that's another big problem, the people who can't separate the authority and the people who have the authority vested in them. You see that a lot on the demonstrations, they have the concept that The Law and Law Enforcement are one. They're demonstrating against the Police Department, actually against policemen". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Dan's Dreadful Direct and Cunning Stunt for example. hmmmm i'm not sure you'd get a lot of disagreement with those, would you? add angora grotto to that list while you're at it, and i'd be happier. i've never met anyone who agreed with the retro bolting of cunning stunt; it pisses me off that it has bolts, when it's a great trad climb. any idea who keeps re-bolting it? anyways, that' a pretty short list, right? hardly something to get all worked up about.... i don't think we in washington have areas as sensitive as say joshua tree, where overbolting creates an eye-sore in a really special place. our crags are pretty isolated and generally pretty chossy and only visited by climbers (ok sure leavenworth is possibly an exception, but i don't notice chalk and bolts when driving through, unlike j tree). I visited Smith Rock twice - once before I ever climbed. I was driving home from Crater Lake with the family and wanted to picnic somewhere, saw the rocks on the horizon and thought "hey, I wonder if we can find a place to eat near those cool rocks". We parked at the higher lot and ate, then hiked around a bit. I didn't notice any bolts at all. Or chains. Anything. I only knew it was a climbing place because as we were about to leave a pair topped off a route right near us. The other places I have cragged - 11 worth, Vantage, Erie, and Tieton. Well, I've generally not seen many folks hiking up there other than climbers to 'appreciate the rock'. (yes, I know these are "trad" places with just some bolted routes - never mind the bolts and chains topping some routes) I'm not saying that there is not unnecessary bolting out there or that it's a good thing to add more bolts to our parks and wilderness areas, but I'm unconvinced that this is the HUGE problem that some posters are saying it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I have placed about 150 bolts in my time. i've maybe clipped that many..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I have placed about 150 bolts in my time. a dolt with bolts? sorry, couldn't resist... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I have placed about 150 bolts in my time. i've maybe clipped that many..... all Kevbone's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Maybe this will get this thread moved back to the climbing forum Not taking a stand... just trying to stimulate some real dialogue Original article: dope post I was recently given more or less the entire collection... I've been trying to put them in order but every time I sit down to do so I get distracted by one of the articles I was thinking about starting a thread with photos of various articles... thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 that would be awesome john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Maybe this will get this thread moved back to the climbing forum Not taking a stand... just trying to stimulate some real dialogue Original article: dope post I was recently given more or less the entire collection... I've been trying to put them in order but every time I sit down to do so I get distracted by one of the articles I was thinking about starting a thread with photos of various articles... thoughts? good idea. don't post in spray though :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 on it great photoshop BTW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 That is F*ng rad John. However, I noticed that Steve Grossman does that all the time on Supertopo, and it's awesome stuff but the historical stuff just seems to disappear in a flurry of political and religious debates. How about taking the Pirates only forum and making it a History forum? We can maybe get Grossman to post here as well so that the great stuff he digs out of his basement and scans for our enjoyment can be found easy. PS RAINDAWG, WAITING FOR AN ANSWER STILL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Just how many folks here are actually putting in bolts? All the moderators? Just Bill Coe? I certainly have never put one in (nor ever plan to) Does hacking a trail into a pristine forest on the way to a formerly unbolted chosspile in the middle of nowhere count? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Everybody is going to think I am some old crusty cowbells goldline and knickers climber though... ...then again that would be an improvement over egotistical arrogant asshole :laf: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spore Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Sport Climbers Burn crash and burn when they reach there personal best. And cant crank 12's & 13's anymore. They dont Climb for the love of it, they climb to be cool Trad Climbers go on, happy to be doing 8's & 9's when they get old. For the Love of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 http://www.mountainfilm.org/festival/2007/schedule/films/eiger_north_face/index.html the real hardmen still use that old gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 http://www.mountainfilm.org/festival/2007/schedule/films/eiger_north_face/index.html the real hardmen still use that old gear The real hardmen crushed shit with shitty gear back in the day... I have one of the tools MFT used on Deprivation and the tools JoJo used to put up Sea of Vapors (among other FAs)... we are weak weak limp wristed fuckers is all I have to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 http://www.mountainfilm.org/festival/2007/schedule/films/eiger_north_face/index.html the real hardmen still use that old gear The real hardmen crushed shit with shitty gear back in the day... I have one of the tools MFT used on Deprivation and the tools JoJo used to put up Sea of Vapors (among other FAs)... we are weak weak limp wristed fuckers is all I have to say. OOOH OHH I used to have the tester Arcteryx Alpha SV JoJo wore and it still had HIS SWEAT INDELIBLY GROUND INTO IT boy did it stink also it had no DWR left and totally delammed all over i think I passed it off to leclerc when he helped me move. AND I know someone who is the proud owner of Barry Blanchard's old Stubais. lets see who can one up THOSE stellar chestbeat-by-associations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 lets see who can one up THOSE stellar chestbeat-by-associations. ...and sniffing the chair Lynn Hill sat on when she came and did her slide show doesn't count ya pervs ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I have placed about 150 bolts in my time. i've maybe clipped that many..... all Kevbone's? never climbed a kevbone route.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I've put in about ten bolts in my time. I'm happy to say, the retaining wall is still standing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponderosa Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 "No, dude...the future is going to judge the current legitimization of sport-climbing as a Dark Age in which the "leave no trace" ethic, adopted by most outdoor pursuits during the last 40 years, has been recklessly ignored for convenience and self-gratification. And mostly on public property....enjoy it while it lasts, because it's not going to last forever. P.S. It has nothing to do with being "bad ass"...I also face climb just fine." This is a legitimate claim. You may not like it and you may not agree with it. But eventually, your "bolts everywhere" standard is going to be cut off by legal means. You moderators are chicken shit assholes for moving this to spray. CascadeBolters.com is on its way out just like spandex climbing tights. Fuck off. Perhaps you're not familiar with the modern vernacular, but when I wrote "dope post" in response to Nolse's posting of the Messner interview/article that means "thanks, great post", you anachronistic coprophag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponderosa Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Maybe this will get this thread moved back to the climbing forum Not taking a stand... just trying to stimulate some real dialogue Original article: dope post I was recently given more or less the entire collection... I've been trying to put them in order but every time I sit down to do so I get distracted by one of the articles I was thinking about starting a thread with photos of various articles... thoughts? That would be great. I've got many of the old rags, but since you're willing to do the work, I don't need to dig the dusty volumes out of their cardboard sarcophagi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 That would be great. I've got many of the old rags, but since you're willing to do the work, I don't need to dig the dusty volumes out of their cardboard sarcophagi. What just happened here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I pretty much just about sent a 5.13 sport route 15m off the deck to 2m off the deck In reverse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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