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[TR] Mt Goode - NE Buttress 7/17/2009

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Trip: Mt Goode - NE Buttress

 

Date: 7/17/2009

 

Trip Report:

Inspired by a recent trip report Nick Strait, Stephanie Savage, and myself climbed the NE Buttress of Mt Goode.

 

We left the Brige Creek trailhead at 9 AM. The first 10 miles went easily enough as it was mostly down hill. With a few breaks we made the turn off to North Fork Bridge Creek trail in 3 1/2 hours. The next five miles went a bit slower. We forded the river without too much trouble and by 3:30 we were at the opposite bank. We hiked up a talus slope to the base of the cliffs below Mt Goode then traversed climber's right to some rock benches.

 

These benches took us to a patch of slide alder before leading to a wooked ridge to the right of the furtherest right waterfall. We followed the wooded rigde over cliffs until able to cut back left across a snow field to an excellent bivi on rock next to the creek.

 

In the middle of the night Nick faked a lung infection, complete with coughing and hacking to get out of climbing the next day, so Stephanie and I climbed without him. We left camp at 3:30 and made our way to the glacier.

 

At the glacier we strapped aluminum crampons onto our approach shoes. We hiked up to the buttress toe and made a sketchy traverse across the moat on a snow bridge to the rock. Stephanie led a 5th class pitch to the buttress crest then we simu-climbed a lot of 4th class rock switching leads once. The climbing steepened so we belayed pitches to the summit where we arrived at 2 PM.

 

We found a gulley imediately to the south and west of the summit which we decided was the Bedayn couloir. We scrambled down to it and started down climbing the horrendously loose gulley. Down aways we found a rap station which we beefed up and made a rap and down climbed some more to a two nut station. We beefed up the slings and I cast off onto an over hanging rappel. The ropes ended in the middle of a cliff. I was able to travese to a tiny ledge and set two more nuts. Anther rappel brought us to more down climbing. This continued for 8 rappels and a lot of loose down climbing until we hit snow. I really had to dust off my anchor building kung fu- we rapped off on nuts, boulders, horns, and chockstones.

 

Once on the snow we hiked around to the Storm King-Goode col where I found a two piton anchor with a single, old sling. We had used every piece of tat we had, so I used a couple of sewn slings to beef it up. We rapped down to the glacier and proceeded to down climb the icy, broken glacier. In tennis shoes this was a bit more than exciting. Stephanie punched through a hidden crevasse.

 

Once past the difficulties we spied Nick who had hiked up to meet us. I was so happy to see him I started running down the glacier. We followed him back to camp and were making dinner by 9 PM.

 

The hike out was uneventful, but long and hot. And we saw a bear.

 

This was a very challenging and rewarding trip with two awesome partners! Thanks Nick and Stephanie.

 

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Edited by danielpatricksmith

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Nick and his lung infections......gotta love that guy! :rawk::wave:

 

Sounds like an awesome trip!

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Good work on the fu, Dan!

 

re:pics

I don't think Facebook allows hotlinking...?

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How do folks usually embed photos in the their trip reports?

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Thanks for the TR. Looking forward to seeing hte pics.

 

I'm not sure how to show this but...in the code below, wrap the first "b" and the first "img" in square brackets to make it work. If you want colored captions, inside the "b" tags, wrap the caption in color start and end tags. Here's blue for example - color:#000066

 

b

YOUR TITLE HERE[/b]

img

http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-...2_6251244_n.jpg[/img]

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I usually just upload pics I'm going to TR to CC.com's gallery.

 

This is using the regular img tags but using Patriot's direct link to Facebook pics:

5520_1210118493071_1232002815_30610302_6251244_n.jpg

Edited by cbcbd

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I've been meaning to post an article about this, but we would prefer that people post images in our gallery versus linking them to Flikr or Facebook. It has nothing to do with property rights, it's just if FB or Flikr change their URLs, or any site for that matter, then it breaks the links and the images never shown up. The idea is to have these TRs available until the interwebs implode. Also, it's helpful if people properly name their images and add appropriate tags, that way they are easier to find when people are searching the gallery. If people have any feedback on uploading photos etc please post it in the suggestions thread in the cc.com news forum.

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Wow, that sounds like a full day. The rap adventure sounds anxious, I'm guessing that wasn't the Bedayn. Good thing you gots skillz.

 

As an aside, cc.com's free and unlimited photo hosting in the gallery is a pretty great feature of this site. Good policy admins: :tup:

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Your shoes look tired. Good trip.

Yeah, they were literally falling apart and went into the trash when I got home.

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The rap adventure sounds anxious, I'm guessing that wasn't the Bedayn. Good thing you gots skillz.

 

Yeah, I had to reach into my bag of tricks on that one. I will say that every anchor was really good. The next party to go descend that way (not recommended) should have an easier time of it.

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The rap part sounds scary for sure. Good thing you had all that extra gear to place. Nick was probably smart to get sick..Nice work!

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how nasty is the moat, now that that bridge is most likely gone? would it be horrid to rap into it and climb out on the rock?

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how nasty is the moat, now that that bridge is most likely gone? would it be horrid to rap into it and climb out on the rock?

 

Probably not terrible. It should go.

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Did you by any chance run across a few pieces of gear near the summit? We were on the summit the day before. We made a last minute decision to bag a waterless summit bivy, and descended the SW couloir amidst fading light to a lower site with running water. Realized a few pieces were missing back at the van. Bummer.

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Hi,

 

I had an email conversation with your partner, Dan. We took a non standard descent route so we did not see your rack. Hope somebody else finds it and returns it.

 

Dan

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