G-spotter Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Do you think it was also an earthquake that tilted your camera like that, Mike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Dru, that's just what it looks like when you climb harder than 5.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share Posted July 20, 2009 we pitched out every pitch up, 4.5 hours up and hour on the summit 3.5 hours down no rappels until the end of the ridge to avoid putting on crampons for the snow ramp exit. the e. ridge would make a very easy ascent to the summit, minimal rock gear. take a snow ramp on the right to bypass the truncated end of the ridge. Â another option to getting to the east ridge would be to cross the chickaman glacier from the col left of the s. end of the gunsights (the same col used to access their east faces). possible bivy in that area but expect a lot of excavating. from the chickamen, travel up the snow to the col between down and the sub peak to the east. this could avoid ~ 2 hours (for the east ridge only the se face is best approached the way wayne and i went) Â sorry dru i still haven't glued a level onto my camera. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 4.5 * 60 / 15 = 18 minutes a pitch. Â Wow. Thats amazing. Given that building and breaking down anchors as well as reorganizing gear takes a couple minutes you guys must have been averaging what? 6 minutes each per pitch? Incredible, almost hard to believe. Â Awesome looking line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 In fact, too hard to believe. The trip was most likely fabricated in order to sell copies of Mike's soon-to-be published book. The photoshoped images would definitly account for the camera tilt perspective as keenly noted by Dru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazz Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 as usual an enjoyable read about you two getting it done!! Â Â I like the new approach to the area except the boat. Pain in the ass and cost $ the rest sounds good though. hmm... Â You just gave me an idea... thanks. Â Cheers to ya both! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 as usual...sweet!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Awesome! :tup: Nice work, Wayne and Mike! Â Great movie. And looks like a great climb. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Very nicely done Wayne! Did you put that together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Yes, I did thank you. I need to figure out how to get better music and fades etc. Quite an easy/fun new hobby I have found with the new Imac. I am hoping to use video to distract the math wizards who are questioning our climb stats and camera angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Based on wayne's vid, Mikey must have been lying on his side to take some of the stills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 how can you stand to climb such clean and protectable rock? nice tick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 wayne's video was on the 4th class pitch dru. man, you're never gonna let the tilt thing so since B.O.B are ya!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Sweet video! The section around 3:32 with the clouds rolling is some really cool stuff. Great work! Thanks for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptownclimber Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Awesome. Congrats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Nice work! Thanks for the great TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scheissami Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Rad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 I know where I would like to go next. Hell what great looking climb. Nice one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Thanks,and glad you enjoyed the video. There is a flake system just left of the Mega-Dihedral that would be a great directish finish. It looks rad after the yellow band though. Plenty of room up there for new lines. Like Mike said we did the standard route. Get after it boys. The high camp is just incredible. The wall itself is the granite terminus of the crest .Total fall is 3000 feet at the bottom of the buttress (which is unclimbed , btw). The whole cirque has a finite and wild feel. It is also not easy to get to as our 3-day approach shows. With stuff for 7 days, the pack was the heaviest I have had since Monjo. 40 lbs feels awful heavy now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 It looks really swell and like very reasonable climbing, were it not for the approach I'm sure it would be an instant classic. Hell, it probably would have been an instant classic 25 years ago. Nice to see an FA of yours and think, "hey, I could do that." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Nice climb! Way to get after it, again, in the middle of nowhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 you thought gran torino was kewler than the eiger sanction?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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