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luvshaker

Smith Rock-easiest onsights/hard for the grade?

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What have been the easiest routes to onsight for the grade, and the hardest route to send for the grade?

Any grade, Trad too.

 

Edited by luvshaker

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BBQ the pope looks like a harder one for the grade. This is more due to the bolting rather than the climbing.

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This is just for 5.10 sport routes

 

.10A- hard for grade(don't really know any sport)

.10A- easy for the grade(Caffeine Free, Pop goes the Nubbin)

 

.10B- hard for the grade(BBQ, Wedding Day, Iguana's on Elm St)

.10B- easy for the grade(Bay of Pigs)

 

.10C- hard for the grade(Ryan's Arete, Fish and Chips)

.10C- easy for the grade(Manic Nirvana)

 

.10D- hard for the grade(Hemp Liberation, Reason to Be, Powder up the Nose

5.10D- easy(Butterknife)

 

 

just off the top of my head, i'm sure there's plenty more.

 

JL

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A few more...

 

These stand out as being pretty straightforward for the grade...

Kunza Korner (10c)

Moons of Pluto (10d)

Blasphemy (11a)

Wartley's Revenge (11b)

Blackened (11c)

 

And these seemed harder or have pretty unusual sequences for an onsight...

Light on the Path (9)

Calamity Jam (10c)

Blue Light Special (11a)

License to bolt (11b)

 

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anything in the Gorge that is rated 5.9 and 5.10 is harder than anything on tuft that is rated the same grade. Also explosive energy child seems hard for the grade, but of course Mr. Belskis told me it was 5.10b as I launched up it on lead.

Edited by shapp

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I agree with all those posted for solid for the grade. And with all of Shapp's stuff too. That's funny as shit about EEC, that's stout and scary for 10D, let alone 10B. First time i did it i whipped on a tiny nut above the last bolt, almost hit me in the face.

 

I didn't really get into the Gorge, as it's a whole different medium down there.

 

JL

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anything in the Gorge that is rated 5.9 and 5.10 is harder than anything on tuft that is rated the same grade

 

maybe not in all cases. I thought that Wildfire is much easier than Pack Animal Direct for example (both 10b per Watts).

Edited by fgw

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anything in the Gorge that is rated 5.9 and 5.10 is harder than anything on tuft that is rated the same grade

 

maybe not in all cases. I thought that Wildfire is much easier than Pack Animal Direct for example (both 10b per Watts).

 

 

That is because one can actually put there fingers "in" wildfire. IMO.

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Gotta second Hemp Liberation being a great piece of stone but with some terrible bolt placements; anyone who leads it will find out why.

 

Kool Ranch Flavor gets an 11a in the supplement but seems at least a grade or two harder at the brief but burly crux.

 

Left Wing (a newer bolted climb in the lower gorge) is pretty stout for 10b - but most aretes seem harder to me anyway.

 

Cling On's second pitch was a serious alpine style 5-9. has anyone else been on that? ugh.

 

 

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Got

 

Kool Ranch Flavor gets an 11a

 

 

Uh....I always thought it was 11.c. At least it is for me.

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OMG

 

 

It's monumental, i agree with Kevbone. Great, now noyone will climb with me.

 

 

JL

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Orgasmophoria ".10c" on the red wall. Great climb for 5.9, cool weird red rock and long. The first pitch Phantasmagoria is a pretty stout .10b edgefest though.

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We (FA party) graded Orgasmophoria 10a. The 10c grade on Smithrock.com was a mistake that we tried to correct, unfortunately the 10c seems to have stuck.

 

Jeff F. wanted to grade it 5.9 but we convinced him it was 10a. Certainly not harder than the first pitch though.

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OMG

 

 

It's monumental, i agree with Kevbone. Great, now noyone will climb with me.

 

 

JL

 

 

Warning!!!!!!! Serious spray/ name dropping about to happen……

 

I gave Lynn Hill a belay on Cool Ranch. She did not know the grade when climbing it. She thought it was 11.c.

 

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OMG

 

 

It's monumental, i agree with Kevbone. Great, now noyone will climb with me.

 

 

JL

 

:laf::lmao::ass: sickie baa :wazup:

 

Damn I need to find a new belayer in bend now. WTF

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i only sportclimb cuz there's never any pinks or kevboners around...

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Chairman Moa's little red book was an easy onsight for the grade at 11a, but for some reason John Gualt line (next to Pack Animal)took me like 5 tries and working out the crux???

 

Ride the lightning 11b-two moves of freakin hard, and I got a rope burn.

 

Vomit launch seemed pretty hard.

 

I Almost Died....onsightable.

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We (FA party) graded Orgasmophoria 10a. The 10c grade on Smithrock.com was a mistake that we tried to correct, unfortunately the 10c seems to have stuck.

 

Jeff F. wanted to grade it 5.9 but we convinced him it was 10a. Certainly not harder than the first pitch though.

 

Wow, right from the horses' mouth. Thanks. Maybe one or two moves of .10a. cool position for sure. Loved that climb.

 

Shapps point about the gorge is well taken. A friend and I were talking about Cruel Sister the other day, .10a? Couldn't even finish it on TR the first time. Def harder than Karate Crack.

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