fgw Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Shapps point about the gorge is well taken. A friend and I were talking about Cruel Sister the other day, .10a? Couldn't even finish it on TR the first time. Def harder than Karate Crack. Personally, I find it to be the exact opposite...go figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Crack Babies is way easier than the 11c just to the left. The 11 isnt over rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Cruel Sister (IMO), is a full grade harder than Karate Crack. Karate Crack would be 5.9 in the valley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 there's that ego thing again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Cruel Sister (IMO), is a full grade harder than Karate Crack. Karate Crack would be 5.9 in the valley. Just came from the valley and did some nines and 10a's. I think Karate would be 10a in the valley, but only because of that traverse. You get so pumped on karate, and then you have to fish around for pro for your follower at the traverse at the very end. Or maybe it's just this old bag of bones. If I could build up my pullup power I might change my mind on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Cruel Sister (IMO), is a full grade harder than Karate Crack. Karate Crack would be 5.9 in the valley. karate crack would be 10.b in the valley cause it would proly be slick as snot.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 yeah...but it'd be nice smooth jams instead of raggedy tuff shite... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 that 5.6 A1 on liberty bell was like 5.9 A1!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Bunny Face (5.6) is a total sandbag. The first few moves off the deck are *hard* I think Revelation (5.9) is soft for the grade. Either way, lots of bomber gear placements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backclipped Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) OMG Damn I need to find a new belayer in bend now. WTF Hey, asshole, what about me!!! It's been reported that I've traded my rope for a mountain bike, but I still climb....sorta. That short pitch out of the west cave of the Monkey is the hardest 11b jug haul I've ever attempted...had to AO out of the bitch. Pouches is dead on 11b Heresy is...... Hemp Liberation is unclimbable because of its bullshit bolting. Darkside spits me off every time. Reason To Be and I have a history Moons, although incredible, is a bit soft. BBQ is not 10b--it's 10zzz (the crux is not falling asleep on the fucker. John Gault is sssttttiiifffffffffff. Who compared Pack Animal Direct to that climb in the gorge...I call bullshit. You just gotta climb with your feet on on Pack Animal. But, I will admit, Jlag puts this one up for me...I'm a pussy gear placer. License to Bolt is as sandbag as it gets. Fred is sorta 10d I'm rambling.................... Edited July 26, 2009 by backclipped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Unless your a competent climber in both the Gorge and on Tuff, it's really hard to be giving out accurate info on grades. I wouldn't begin to grade stuff in the Gorge, as i suck down there. It depends so much on trad experience, height, hand size, etc. Also remember grading started out as a base opinion on if one was ON-SIGHTING the climb, not TR or following. At least that's why my old school ass was always taught. This makes a really big difference. Just climb and have a good time. Too much empasis on grading leads to EGO climbing and not enough just moving over stone. If your a climber it runs in your blood, period. JL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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