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Matt_Alford

[TR] Silverstar-Whine Spire - El Gato Negro 7/14/2009

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Trip: Silverstar-Whine Spire - El Gato Negro

 

Date: 7/14/2009

 

Trip Report:

Alan K and I climbed El Gato Negro on Whine Spire on Tuesday. Overall we found the climb enjoyable with several high quality alpine pitches. A fair bit of the rock was of less good quality and climbing, but generally took gear well. The 10a bolted 2nd pitch was full value first thing in the morning with cold fingers and toes! The off-width to double cracks crux pictch was memorable a well as the "double roofs" pitch 8. The 5.10 crack on the false summit was money and a classy finish to the climb.

I agree with Sol that the climbing falls about 10b and would benefit from a bit more traffic. 6 pack and a foot soak in Early Winters Creek was nice end to the trip.

 

Descent was um.....a little bit of an adventure. Three 30m raps brought us to the gully and several hundred feet of loose downclimbing, 2 more raps and 500 more feet of loose downclimbing brought us back to the packs. Keep your helmet on for the descent on this one. Email me if you want more details.

 

 

 

 

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Alan on the 10a slab pitch

 

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Alan getting it on with a real alpine chimney/OW! Good stuff!

 

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Alan following "Double Roofs" pitch 8.

 

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View back from the top of the false summit pitch. Rad Finish!

 

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Alan, a man in his element.

 

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Didn't even have to use our headlamps...close though.

 

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Livin' the Dream!

 

Gear Notes:

Doubles to #2, #3, #3.5, #4.5

 

Approach Notes:

Burgundy Creek Trail to Bench and head South under West Face of Silverstar.

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brings back memories, nice job.

 

what's up with the link-up?

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I am very confused....how is it you have alpenglow on the barely-headlampless descent followed by full sunshine while drinking beer at the creek? Is that breakfast?

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i hear that drinking before the alpine is a great new way to challenge yourself in the mountains. 5.10 alpine is just too easy now a days ;)

solid work fellas!

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