t_rutl Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Trip: Mount Baker - North Ridge Date: 7/11/2009 Trip Report: With hopes of standing atop Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Cook, Ama Dablam and the likes over the next few seasons it was time to take on the alpine ice. While on an excursion to Ouray this past winter I ran into Matt Wade in the Ice Park who recently established Peak Mountain Guides (www.peakmountainguides.com). As we got to talking, come to find out he spends his summers guiding in the Cascades. We decided to connect while he was out here for a shot at Baker’s North Ridge as intro to steep, committing alpine ice routes. Done deal and set for mid-July. The plan was to bike Glacier Creek Road and camp at Merkwood Friday. Spend Saturday as a rest day/playing on the ice and move up onto the Coleman. Sunday would be our summit day then pack out Monday. As the forecast unfolded that sounded like a bad idea. We ended up biking Glacier Creek Road, lugging the packs up onto the Coleman and camping on the “Football Field” around 6,600’ all on Friday. Crashing at 10pm the alarm went off at 1:30 and shortly thereafter we were on our way. Camp Glacier Sunset Route finding across the Coleman proved to be trickier than anticipated. We approached the “Cutoff” as dawn approached. View back towards camp The ‘schrund was fairly established so Matt pitched a short run onto the slope above. After 800 or so vert feet up 45 degree slopes on good nevé things backed off a bit until reaching the crux onto the upper ice cap. After a short section of vertical ice Matt set a belay to attain the upper ridge which we ran out in two pitches on 50m rope. Once atop we short-roped up the slopes starting at 50 degrees easing back slightly until the final steep section crossing a sketchy bridge onto the summit plateau. All in all: 11 hrs on route to summit (includes more tricky route finding on the Coleman and an on route “new boot blues” foot patching session). We hoofed it down the Coleman/Demming to camp in just a shade over two hours and collapsed after a long day right after a long day all while running on next to no sleep. 5 Hour Energy and a fistful of Advil…the breakfast of champions!! Even though exhausting, our new itinerary proved worthwhile. The clouds, wind, rain, lightning and thunder moved in Sunday which would have kyboshed our summit attempt. As we rode down the 7 mile windy road it poured and we were soaked to the bone. Thankfully dry clothes were waiting. In summary: The Coleman is still in good shape but things are really starting to open up. The cutoff is still attainable and snow/ice conditions were close to ideal all the way up ridge. Crossing onto the summit plateau is still relatively straight forward but could change at a moments notice. Decent down the Coleman/Demming was cake compared to the North Ridge up. Bikes are by far the way to go and grab one of those child carrier trailers (brilliant Matt!!) for the packs. It was truly a wilderness experience. Didn’t see a soul but for two on Heliotrope on our way out. Will post some more shots from the other perspective as soon as I get them. Our approx. route as seen from camp...lower X marks the cutoff, upper marks the crux Gear Notes: Glacier gear, crampons, 2 tools, 8 screws (6 x 16cm, 2 x 22cm), 2 pickets, 50m x 8mm rope and bikes! Approach Notes: Bikes for Glacier Creek Road!! Heliotrope is in good shape. Things are snow free atop Hogsback. Plenty of running water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 nice use of the baby carrier! biking and mountaineering, the new rage. good job on the route too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhelmstadter Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishmael Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 thanks for the pics and the tr. It is nice when you change your plans for the weather and it works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Nice job! Looks like you stole one on the weather and got down before it got nasty. That is one sweet looking route...thanks for the TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 thanks guys! it was a helluva trip out...i was definately feeling the day before but Matt's bionic Ouray calves kept us on pace for a great outing!!! few more pics: camp with alpenglow approaching the crux topping out the vert ice on the first pitch picks in for pitch #2 last steep bit before the plateau sweet waterfall on Heliotrope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dooitup Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 We just had a go of this this weekend. Well we knew it was too warm but we went and checked it out. Got part way on the coleman by 5am and the conditions were afternoon like so we went back to camp. Here are the pictures: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky_joe Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 (edited) I am thinking of giving the route a go this weekend...would you say the route is still climbable? Or would I be best served to put my time into another peak? Also bikes=necessary? Edited August 4, 2009 by rocky_joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I guarantee you it's climbable. Depends on what you want, whether it's worth doing right now. Here's a link from when Crazy_Jeff and I did it in late August '03: North Ridge of Baker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 So, I've never heard of this route having sections that are truly "vertical" (i.e. 90 degrees steep). Comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndavidjr Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 How much did Matt charge you for the climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 i experienced vertical ice steps on the N ridge a few years back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 BTW, I think a better option for the approach is to head towards the Baker/Colfax pass and cut down from high up, skirting around the toe of the buttress below Coleman Headwall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 A group of Mounties climbed the route this past weekend (8/2), so it's doable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 The route varies, depending on where you climb it and conditions. You can encounter vertical-to-overhanging ice for a very short while, or rambly 60 degree ice. The best approach right now is probably from the north, from Cougar Divide or Skyline Divide, given the late-season Coleman Glacier and the washout on Glacier Creek Road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 I am thinking of giving the route a go this weekend...would you say the route is still climbable? Or would I be best served to put my time into another peak? Also bikes=necessary? i've never been on the north side this late but have seen TR's from late Aug on the North Ridge so I'm sure it'd doable like Sky said. and YES! bike are a necessity if taking the Heliotrope approach...i cant comment on the other approaches that have been suggested but i know Sky is a top notch climber so his way is prob better but you would have to ask him for beta on that...but bikes are the ONLY way to go for Glacier Creek Road So, I've never heard of this route having sections that are truly "vertical" (i.e. 90 degrees steep). Comments? from what i gathered the ice just shifts and shapes from season to season...we had a short vert step to gain the 60-70 degree crest...there was a longer step of 80ish degree to the climbers right but we chose the shorter steaper section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Google map - note the road Cougar Divide => Hadley Peak => Roosevelt Glacier Not far and much less glacier travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckouba Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 (edited) So, I've never heard of this route having sections that are truly "vertical"... Depends where you choose to head up. My esteemed partner headed a little right of normal and we pulled up to the ridge under a ~40' vertical step. If we had sidehilled more, we would have picked up the toe of the ridge which would have been very mellow angle. If you're in the mood, you can likely find anything to suit your taste of adventure up there. Our TR from 26 July 2007 In this photo taken above the top of the hourglass shortcut, head left for mellow access to true N Ridge, head right for all the spiciness you desire: Edited August 5, 2009 by ckouba Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dooitup Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 the problem for us was that the freezing level hadnt been below 13000 feet in probably a couple weeks so we were bottom out our ice axes in a lot of areas near crevasses. If we start getting some normal frezing levels it will be a lot safer crossing the glaciers. once you get to the ridge it should be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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