cbcbd Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Trip: Dragontail - Backbone ridge Date: 7/11/2009 Trip Report: Ever since moving to WA I've been trying to get on some of the famed classics of the Cascades. I do enjoy doing lesser known and fewer hands touched climbs, but one can't fail to admit that classics become classics because of a good reason - although nowadays it is probably because someone posts about it on the internet or they publish a book touting the sound rock and transcendental climbing. Although very happy with what I've gotten in I still had a void needing to be filled - I had yet to visit the Stuart range. Long alpine rock in a famed area... I just had to go. Kevin H had some free time, the weather was good, we both wanted it... so we went, and it went something like this: -We approached. -We scrambled and climbed the initial 5.6 pitch. -...and then came the offwidth. Early on Kevin offered me the offwidth pitch and thankfully that is what happened since I already had a fight planned in mind in case I lost the toss up. From previous reports and reputation I expected the worse - grunting, swearing, scratches, stuck jammed legs...- and instead got one of the best pitches of the climb! Chicken wings and foot jams on the left, stemming and face on the right. Do that shimmy for 90' and you're now at an awesome ledge. Great protection all the way through with excellent rests and sufficient exposure. In retrospect I would've left the #4 C4 at home. The 1X #5 worked great and I walked it up about 3 times until leaving it in place not far from the end, ~7' away from the next chance for pro in a crack on the left. Stellar. -From here we somehow chose to ignore some beta or just get confused. We went up and directly right to the crest of the ridge. We stayed on it for a while and that actually had some very good climbing on a variety of cracks. Only after a while did we start peetering to the left. -We simuled, short pitched, go to the base of the fin, did the first mid 5th pitch to the bottom The fin: -From first ledge on the fin Kevin went straight up until cracks started getting thinner and looser. So from there traversed to the left to some blocks and up double cracks to the next ledge. -From the next ledge on the fin we had some choices. a-Go way left to what seemed like cracks going all the way up? b-to the right, following the left facing dihedral c-up the middle to reach obvious left-facing flakes about 30-40' up Well, since I remembered the description mentioning "flakes" and I saw the "flakes" I figured that had to be the way. I took a right trending crack to the left which took me to the flakes. Followed the flakes up and then they ended and sort of went to the right. For some reason I figured we'd be better off getting on the crack system to the left, so I made a spicy, airy, and smeary traverse left, picked up the big crack and setup a nice hanging belay on it. The next pitch was just straight up on this same crack and then picking up the big rightward traverse foot crack to the "top" of the fin between big blocks and a little down onto the other side - the chossy triple-couloir side. -From there we simuled the choss on the left side for a bit and then got back on the right/good side of the ridge... following it all the way to the summit. -Hung out, took pics, ate, drank. -Descended. The Hogan likes his speed... and I don't like to fall behind if I can help it. With me trying to keep up we clocked in at a respectable 14:15 c-t-c. We were trying to keep it under 14 but only decided on that way too late and there is no way in hallaciousness that I would've been able to just outright run the trail down! Perhaps next time we'll leave the gear at home and save some weight, eh Kev-o? In all, some great climbing and I now see why it is so popular - solid granite, big lines, fun climbing, plenty of existing quality lines, and as we saw recently, plenty of new lines just waiting to be climbed. Good times. Morning goat Requisite offwidth pic Finally trending left off the ridge crest From the hanging belay on the fin Last pitch on the fin This TR was brought to you by: Spanky's - "Nice rack" ...we're required by contract to mention them... Gear Notes: nuts, some doubles in mid range, 1X 1-5 C4. Would've left the #4 next time and just brought the #5 for the offwidth. Approach Notes: The dude who told us the lake was frozen is a liar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 That's a fast time car to car. Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taluscat Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 hey doug, funaramma my man-the morning shot of the goat is so nice (check out the eyes) thanks again to our sponsor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Nice work Doug! You are on quite the tear this season! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Nice TR and Pics. I also like the goat picture...sweet! I've only done the Serpentine...a much less difficult and clasic route on that big hunk of rock. That looks like a great route...totally deserving it's status. Do you have a picture of Spanky's nice rack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taluscat Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 go to spankys for a viewing of many "nice racks" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belayerslayer Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 fun and classic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giza Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 nice work fellas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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