JosephH Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I moved an anchor today, it was with two year old, five piece, non-stainless 3/8" bolts which were already well on their way to corroding. If you must bolt something on the west side of the Cascades, then please pop for stainless so you're not just installing ten year timebombs - and also, please pay attention to holding the drill perpendicular to the rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I moved an anchor today, it was with two year old, five piece, non-stainless 3/8" bolts which were already well on their way to corroding. If you must bolt something on the west side of the Cascades, then please pop for stainless so you're not just installing ten year timebombs - and also, please pay attention to holding the drill perpendicular to the rock. Â LOL!!! total agreement. I've been preaching this for a while. It amazes me how fast the 5 piece go bad, and you can't tell form just looking at them. Stainless is the only way to go unless you're at the coast, and then look at Titanium glueins. My fear is that there is a real, internal, non-visible rust at the 5 piece threads causing which will cause failure in some years while the outside of the bolt is still looking relatively good. Who can really say how the steel 5 piece will hold up long term- they start to rust where you can't see it and go to crap shockingly fast. And anyway, the other big issue is why make someone else deal with it and make them put in stainless later after you already used the best location/spot for the steel one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 the western gorge huh, sounds like beacon is opened or JH has special privileges out at beacon. or in his desperation and failed attempt for an early opening has been reduced to climbing at the far side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I moved an anchor today, it was with two year old, five piece, non-stainless 3/8" bolts which were already well on their way to corroding. If you must bolt something on the west side of the Cascades, then please pop for stainless so you're not just installing ten year timebombs - and also, please pay attention to holding the drill perpendicular to the rock. Â Uh....give us more than that JH? Where? What climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Jh has a degree in CRYPTIC.... to bad he didn't go for a masters in STOIC.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 JH. Did you ask the people who put in this anchor if you could screw with it? Or are you on a crusade to micro manage all the climbing in the "western gorge"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 the western gorge huh, sounds like beacon is opened or JH has special privileges out at beacon. or in his desperation and failed attempt for an early opening has been reduced to climbing at the far side. Â Check out the power of the Internet - now you can hear a whine all the way from Colorado where it's 81 degrees with scattered clouds in Eldo today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 Kevin, you did use all stainless at Ozone, right...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 What is Ozone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 What is Ozone? Â The secret place you made a guidebook for last year. Hello!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 It is as secret as the drop zone/ the far side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 Edited. Well, that covered half of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 I suppose you branding me with a title is better than you branding yourself king of all climbing and king of Beacon.....just saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 The point of the thread was to let folks know that being shortsighted or cheap now is only going to create a mess for themselves or others ten years down the road when all the non-stainless bolts need to be replaced - not to provide an impulse control test for you and pink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinp Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 wow! this is good stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 The point of the thread was to let folks know that being shortsighted or cheap now is only going to create a mess for themselves or others ten years down the road when all the non-stainless bolts need to be replaced - not to provide an impulse control test for you and pink. Â I think the point of the thread was so you get to tell others what to do/how to climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 No, unless you think Bill is trying to tell people how to climb as well. But if you insist that mentioning to folks that putting in rusting time bombs and badly placed bolts serves no one's interest is 'telling other what to do / how to climb' then so be it. But me personally, if I'm going to come upon a bolt, my preference is that it's a good one. Â So which is it out at Ozone, stainless or will your son be climbing on junk in in his early teens...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 the western gorge huh, sounds like beacon is opened or JH has special privileges out at beacon. or in his desperation and failed attempt for an early opening has been reduced to climbing at the far side. Â Check out the power of the Internet - now you can hear a whine all the way from Colorado where it's 81 degrees with scattered clouds in Eldo today. Â yes i know, i've been there plenty lately. now go convince some young stupid climber that u r RAD! feel sorry for the guy u mentor. free climbing with pocket protectors and double gear slings. go away from beacon ya fucking dork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 No, unless you think Bill is trying to tell people how to climb as well. But if you insist that mentioning to folks that putting in rusting time bombs and badly placed bolts serves no one's interest is 'telling other what to do / how to climb' then so be it. But me personally, if I'm going to come upon a bolt, my preference is that it's a good one. So which is it out at Ozone, stainless or will your son be climbing on junk in in his early teens...?  bolts, chalk, falcons... oh tell us more, show us the way. yer a regular modern day moses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 Bad bolts, half a bag of chalk dumped on half a 5.7 pitch, and fewer climbing days - all good no doubt, especially if you live somewhere else and don't climb. Â Edit: so you claim to be getting out, good for you, what a change - whining and climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 You mean the Bone Zone? Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 BEEN HANGING ANY SIGNS FROM BUILDINGS LATELY NERD BOY. Â ARE YOU HAPPY WITH WHAT U HAVE ACCOMPLISHED JH? OR IS SPENDING THREE YEARS ON A 6 PITCH ROUTE STATUS QUO FOR Hardmen like yourself. i climb plenty and would like to see your resume dickhead. Â and jh, if you think people like you they are just pretending. Â good job on another successful opening. Â go to yosemite and climb something, thats what i did when beacon closed and i wasn't trying to start a business and a family. i have other objectives dickhead. billcoe took time off raising his family. why don't you call him a fool why you are at it. and i', pretty sure my climbing resume is strong. Â FUCK YOU YOU WANKER. YOU CAN'T EVEN KEEP FROM SPRAYING IN YOUR OWN FORUM. Â YOU ARE A LOSER. Â A LOSER. Â no one i know who has met likes you. Â want me to start naming names? Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 You mean the Bone Zone?  shut the fuck up fat boi. kevin will out climb u any day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Take it to spray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toproper Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 for fucks sake ninos...apparantly there are historical issues between individuals not obvious to everyone here. How else to explain Mr Pink's hostility?? Â take it easy manos... Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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