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[TR] Sluiskin-The Chief - West Face 7/11/2009


Fairweather

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Trip: Sluiskin-The Chief - West Face

 

Date: 7/11/2009

 

Trip Report:

Our MRNP summer adventure series continues. Pope and I left Carbon River entrance station at 7am on our mountain bikes to climb this 7100 foot peak that stands sentinel above Windy Gap. Stashed our bikes at Ipsut Campground, hiked the Carbon River trail to the lower crossing, and traversed the river easily on a series of 5 new foot bridges that MRNP crews have constructed. The hike to Windy Gap on the Northern Loop Trail is a switchback-fest to rival any in the park, and we found the pass-area still about 90% covered in snow. X-C traverse from here and up a moderate snow gully to the saddle between The Chief and The Squaw. A large alcove makes up the west face and it is climbed to the ridge above in one pitch--low 5th class--that we protected with small-to-medium stoppers, a yellow Alien, and a large hex. An exposed scramble from here to the top is belay-worthy. Rappelled the north ridge with our single 50m rope and scrambled the rest of the way down. Hiked out and picked up our bikes for the classic Cascade mountain finish--a 5 mile downhill mountain bike speed-fest. This trip is a very long day. Good times:

 

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Gear Notes:

small rack.

 

Approach Notes:

Kudos to the MRNP folks who have been working hard to fix the Carbon River mess! All included, this trip is almost a 6000 foot day and covers a lot of distance.

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Scrambling on the north ridge.

 

 

 

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View of Grand Park.

 

 

 

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For Tvashtarkatena.

 

 

 

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Threatening weather.

 

 

 

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Fairweather is a mountain-busting animal. I clipped this to his butt and he didn't even notice.

 

 

 

 

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That brings back long forgotten memories. That peak was my first solo ascent ever when I think I was 15 years old. Where have the years gone....?

 

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

 

Groucho Marx

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1991 called, they want their neon tubular webbing back.

 

B-U-S-T-E-D!!! ....by the fashion police. Hey, I appreciate when you let us know that we're not trendy. Even though that webbing would probably hold your fat girlfriend AND twice the beer you can drink in a year in a 50-foot whipper over a sharp edge, you are correct to say that the color is WAY out of vogue and we should probably retire it immediately, then head straight to REI where some little dork with a green vest will help us spend our money on something hip, trendy and decorated in "modern" colors.

 

Hey, Pete_H, is that you?

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Or perhaps you can be found in this crowd?

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These guys need help gettin' ready for the big "send" at Exit 38, and I'll bet you can help them look their best.

2xist-models-runway.jpg

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