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[TR] Inspiration Peak - East Ridge 7/3/2009

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Trip: Inspiration Peak - East Ridge


Date: 7/3/2009


Trip Report:

Inspiration Peak, East Ridge, Grade *hard*, 5.9

July 3-5, 2009


This was pretty much my favorite alpine adventure to date, taking the top spot from the full n. ridge of stuart. We had great weather and worked pretty well as a team to get through the crazy approach and uncertainties of the ascent/descent.


The trail is relentless and long, but doable if you give it the better part of a day. Two other parties starting up alongside us were shut down in some way or another by the approach.


The decision to bring a couple 60m ropes was a good one. We were really stoked to have them on the raps. We also decided to take all our gear in one pack for the follower. This worked out in our favor because there are only a couple pitches of Business Time and the rest is easier ground.


I've already written a detailed TR elsewhere, but I wanted to add to the useful beta we found here on CC. I can't explain how much you guys helped out, so here you go. There's plenty 'o Picket Range P0rn on the TR.


Inspiration Peak - East Ridge TR


Thanks to Steph and friends for hooking us up with last minute beta on the descent and a lighter for the guys with the NINE ESSENTIALS! We are such n00bs..


Gear Notes:

2 60m ropes (can be done with a single 60 but the rap stations look manky.)

1 light set of stoppers

single cams from fingers to #3 with another #2 and #3 for the wider stuff

lots of tied doubles



Approach Notes:

approach – The trailhead starts right in a campsite at a huge boulder. The trail itself is pretty simple to follow, with a couple sections of modest ’schwack-tacular issues. At the Goodell campsite, the *near vertical* trail starts up to the right. There is no cairn/arrow/tape here. After thousands of feet of vertical death marching, there are trails across the heather benches at ~5200 feet. Cairns are here and there. The benches are similar to the Boston Basin trails. Camp is up and over a small pass. There is water/snow at camp in the first week of July, but I’m not sure how long that will last.


ascent – takes about 2-3 hours to get from camp to the base of the route. Simul-climb tied in 30M apart to the ridge. That part is CHOSSY, so watch out. The nelson guide and other beta detail the climb very well.


descent – The gully at the bottom of the West Ridge is a shooting gallery. Instead, try 3 double rope raps down the West ridge, then four more down the south face to the glacier. There is significant rockfall danger at the base of the South face, so run away fast. We witnessed a monstrous icefall/rockfall in the West Ridge gully which most people rap down. It looked nastier and more active than the crap falling off the South.


de-proach – two hours or so to camp, 5-7 hours down. The trail is WAY easier to find on the way down.


I have a GPS track of the whole approach if anyone needs it.

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A lighter is the #1 essential imo, for many reasons. :)


That approach sure is an asskicker. Way to get after it and knock out a big climb too! :tup:

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