Jesse_Dawg Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Hey All I will be attempting Rainier towards the end of July, I know that chances are that the snow quality will probably be pretty bad. Anyways my question is which route should I attempt? I have a good amount of technical rock climbing experience, am pretty fit (workout 4-6 times a week with weights and run about 25 miles a week) and I have climbed Mt. Hood a few times. Thanks for your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaredSilly Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 By the end of July your best options are either the DC via Muir or the Emmons. These are the two std routes. Both will require some traversing because of crevases but will there will be a well trodden path to follow. Not much of a wilderness experience but probably you best bet. If conditions are good about the only other route I would suggest is the Kaltz Glacier but it more than likely be sun cups to hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SExNW Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Just got back from the Muir/DC route today. Above the cleaver there is already significant crevasses that require a traverse over to the Emmons, and then MORE traversing due to MORE crevasses above on the Emmons. The top of the cleaver (the finger?) is already starting to melt out, which apparently doesn't happen till much later in the season, according to an RMI guide we were speaking with (I was not with a guided group, just chatting). He indicated the DC route might be shut down much earlier this year due to all these dang crevasses and potential rockfall on the cleaver. That said, the route had a great boot track with plenty of headlamps to help guide the way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse_Dawg Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 Thanks alot guys! I'll keep my finger on the pulse of these various routes through out the month. Again, I appreciate any information anyone has to give on the more well raveled routes up the mountain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhluhr Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Just did the Kautz Glacier this past week and yes, it was heavily suncupped in places but the ice chute was filled with penitentes which made it probably a good bit easier to climb/descend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse_Dawg Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 thanks! Im keeping an eye on the mountain as my climb is next week, keeping my fingers crossed %Pr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse_Dawg Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 Does anyone have any info on the Muir/DC route? I will be attempting on Wednesday and am looking for recent route condition. Thanks J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Does anyone have any info on the Muir/DC route? I will be attempting on Wednesday and am looking for recent route condition. Thanks J linky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillK Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Was up the DC yesterday. Leave early. Route traverses a bit east towards Emmons shoulder. Few obstacles. Good snow conditions overall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse_Dawg Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 Had an AWESOME trip!!! Made ti to about 14,000 and had to turn around cause of really bad altitude sickness... Next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfer45 Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Reached the summit four days ago. The conditions were good, the snow was great in the morning. I did the DC route, and there is a boot path that is clearly marked from Muir. I would scout out the DC because I found it somewhat difficult to find the exact route down during the decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaredSilly Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Had an AWESOME trip!!! Made ti to about 14,000 and had to turn around cause of really bad altitude sickness... Next time If ya did not puke it was only a mild case of AMS. Bummer though you were close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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