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BillBurning

partner for rainier liberty ridge

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quote:

Originally posted by Dan Larson:

Dude you are scaring me. There is a book called mt. Rainier a Climbing guide by Big Mike Gauthier. It will let you know what is up that coupled with the NPS route conditions would be a good start in picking a route or you could just ask Daniel Patrick and he will let you know the conditions when he climbed it 2 years ago

That would be nice except the NPS website only has route conditions for seven routes, none of which we're particularly interested in climbing (except for Liberty Ridge). I was merely seeing what other routes people thought were worthwhile and might be in good condition. And I have Beckey's 1970 something guide... It's up to date right? [Wink]

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I climbed Rainier 2 years ago so I am an expert [Roll Eyes] I think the best first route could be the Finger unless you are fit the Willis Wall or Liberty Ridge.

 

Mike G aint gonna be round when I am surmounting schrunds or ice cliffs. Should I ask him to heel hook when I was thinking about toe hooking.

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I don't mean to be obnoxious but:

 

Potentially Difficult Late Season Conditions

+

Little real glacier experience

+

Solo Climbing

+

A route that has seen both accidents and deaths this year

+

Twenty-one years old

+

The inability to look through a guidebook

 

=

No Climbing Permit

 

I can't say that I blame the people down at Mt. Rainier for denying a permit. Good for them. Too much bad stuff going on around here this year.

 

Disappointment Cleaver or Emmons glacier are both good routes for people new to Mt. Rainier.

 

Jason

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Just send the climb permit be damned! If you're willing to accept the objective dangers of the route to summit, you should have no problem going w/o a permit. The word "permit" and "mountain" only belong in the same sentence if we're talking ski resorts.

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Dan Larson,

 

First off, who do you think you are to say the route is out of condition? This is the sort of attitude that makes me seethe. 'Well the NPS said it was out of shape so it must be so.' Reverse sandbagging is what I call it and what it is is lesser climbers making excuses for their shortcomings.

 

Second of all, I have no grey hair.

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Obviously you are a FAR (not sarcastic) more accomplished climber than myself and you look at your objectives a lot more boldly than I do. I am cautious and have only done a few things ( mostly dog rainier routes)I climb for a good workout and the atmosphere of Mt. Rainier mostly . Not trying to ruffle feathers here but I am at the point where I listen to the reports and plan accordingly . So you are saying Hair For Men really works?

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Go do the first ski descent of thermogenesis

 

i heard 4th hand conditions are GRAYTE DOOD!!

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I am saying my hair is blond, not grey, has never been grey and will never be grey. It will all have fallen out far before then.

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The Mowich Face is pretty good - it is not terribly difficult but there is some ice climbing involved and it is both scenic and isolated. A few years back, I climbed it from a very scenic camp that I believe was at about 10,500' just below the face. In late July or early August we headed up the middle of the face on (maybe) 35 degree terrain, climbed a mixed pitch, and exited left on a ledge that led to some ice climbing on the side of Ptarmigan Ridge (I don't recall whether this was "Central Mowich Face" or what). Descending the "Sicle" on the Tahoma Glacier was a big mistake - it required technical downclimbing beneath very large seracs in the hot sun. We should have gone back down the route or descended the normal Tahoma Glacier route.

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quote:

Originally posted by Jason Martin:

I don't mean to be obnoxious but:

 

Potentially Difficult Late Season Conditions

+

Little real glacier experience

+

Solo Climbing

+

A route that has seen both accidents and deaths this year

+

Twenty-one years old

+

The inability to look through a guidebook

 

=

No Climbing Permit

 

I can't say that I blame the people down at Mt. Rainier for denying a permit. Good for them. Too much bad stuff going on around here this year.

 


Yes, the inability to look through a guidebook? Whatever. The elitist attitude of the "climbing super guide" rears its ugly head. As far as age, I have no idea what that has to do with anything. As far as experience goes, you know nothing about my resume. Before you pass judgement, you should have all the facts.

 

-Bill

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quote:

Originally posted by mattp:

The Mowich Face is pretty good - it is not terribly difficult but there is some ice climbing involved and it is both scenic and isolated. A few years back, I climbed it from a very scenic camp that I believe was at about 10,500' just below the face. In late July or early August we headed up the middle of the face on (maybe) 35 degree terrain, climbed a mixed pitch, and exited left on a ledge that led to some ice climbing on the side of Ptarmigan Ridge (I don't recall whether this was "Central Mowich Face" or what). Descending the "Sicle" on the Tahoma Glacier was a big mistake - it required technical downclimbing beneath very large seracs in the hot sun. We should have gone back down the route or descended the normal Tahoma Glacier route.

I spoke with group of 4 that just did this route on saturday, and they said it was good. They were on our way down the DC, the standard route and they said that the route hasn't been written up for over 6 weeks, and it was in good condition.

TTT [Roll Eyes]

 

[ 07-21-2002, 09:54 PM: Message edited by: To The Top ]

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