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Dhamma

Roping up on Shasta

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<-Newb

 

 

A few of my friends who have sumitted via the avalanche gulch route in the summer have not roped up and said it is unnecessary. Both of these characters are not experienced climbers, so I figured I'd ask here. Is it a good idea to rope up? I'm thinking of doing it just to practice for Rainier (which is a goal of mine next year). Thoughts?

 

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No roping up should be necessary for avalanche gulch -- it is just a snowfield, not a proper glacier where crevasses would pose a hazard.

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got the helmet. so do you guys bring any pickets or deadmen for staking out the tent or route flags?

 

<-newb

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I would only rope up at the Hotlum glacier (as a few others did last weekend) that is heavily crevassed these days.

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No roping, just watch out near the top of the gully around the rocks. Due to the warming, the snow is weakest around the rocks and little moats can form. Probably will not die if you fall into one but it might hurt.

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I'd skip on bringing pickets just for the tent. Can use the shovel and ski poles (if you don't plan to use them on summit day). Also, by now you should be able to find campsites in Avy Gulch that have melted out if you want to camp on rock and leave the shovel at home. This is especially true if you're not dead set on camping at Helen.

 

The climbing rangers have done a pretty good job of flagging the route at all the places where you might get off track. Barring a total whiteout you'll be able to see the trampled down superhighway and the long line of headlamps that come with Avy Gulch, especially on the weekends.

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