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[TR] Mt. Baker - Boulder Glacier 6/28/2009


BirdDog

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Trip: Mt. Baker - Boulder Glacier

 

Date: 6/28/2009

 

Trip Report:

After a hiatus from alpine climbing I teamed up with Tazz and Magnum for an attempt on Baker via the Boulder/Park Cleaver. The alarm failed to go off, or we ignored it; so our alpine start turned into an early morning start. The pond next to our bivy was frozen, and the snow was perfect for cramponing, at least for an hour or so. After a gorgeous sunrise we were post holing in deep slop. To avoid crossing snow bridges in the heat of the day, we bailed @ 9000'.

 

The Boulder is a great route. We had that entire side of the mountain to ourselves, except for the headlamps of a team of two who turned back below us. A stunning day none the less.

 

 

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Shuksan looked so good we're heading there tomorrow.

 

Gear Notes:

Better alarm clock, usual glacier stuff; cold beer in the cooler.

 

Approach Notes:

Stay in the creek after the swamp, that way you'll be on route. Old fixed line at the class 3 part getting onto the ridge; we just climbed it, rapped on the way back.

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Got an e-mail from Geoff asking to join for a baker trip. I said, “sure!”. Then the next e-mail was, “what route?” My reply, “Boulder route!” Done, We had plans. Then weather messed with us for a week or so. Then it was on!

 

I am not much of a volcano climber using the conga line dog routes :sick: . I have always wanted to do the Boulder Cleaver route On Baker. I knew the approach was more difficult, more gain (8000'), distance and had a small crux that keeps most folks out :-). Just my kind of approach, one that keeps others away! Plus it was fun!

 

Great partners, views, route and pure fun was had!! Thanks Geoff and Chris!

 

Some pics for you all to enjoy. :grin:

 

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Edited by tazz
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