gkdmaths Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 I searched and read all of last years TRs about the Tatoosh traverses, but I wanted to know if anyone had been up Unicorn this year? Basically, how are the rap anchors on the summit block looking this year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazz Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 here is a tr good beta by a good climber. go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkdmaths Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Bonus! I'm taking a few guys I sport climb with up, I havent been in quite a long time. It'll be a terrific day and a nice change in scenery from little si. thanks man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boston Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Not sure if you've already made the trip -- but the rap anchor is in descent shape. The old tree on the summit block is dead, but it is fairly large and the root system seems intact -- kicked it fairly hard. Placed a second runner at the base... Was up there about a month ago... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neswstar Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 what about crampns. Are they needed in the morning on the approach for the snow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 You might emphasize to your sport partners that the 'rock climbing' on this hike is short, very easy, and uninteresting. At least that was my impression of the uphill lines. Combine with Castle and Pinnacle for a nice x-country outing. The real reason to go is the front row view of the big R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neswstar Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 For those looking to know, 7/25 we took crampons and ice axes and used them both. Also glad to have taken along the swimsuit for a dip in Bench lake - the water was perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 You might emphasize to your sport partners that the 'rock climbing' on this hike is short, very easy, and uninteresting. At least that was my impression of the uphill lines. Combine with Castle and Pinnacle for a nice x-country outing. The real reason to go is the front row view of the big R. RAD Did you climb the many routes on the horn of the Unicorn? An ice ax is nice for chop'n steps on the approach, I have climbed the horn in Tevas, The mountainsteers rope up,that could be the smarter move. The castle can be death choss except for the SE open book route and hard to downclimb Just some thoughts for the masses Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 You might emphasize to your sport partners that the 'rock climbing' on this hike is short, very easy, and uninteresting. At least that was my impression of the uphill lines. Combine with Castle and Pinnacle for a nice x-country outing. The real reason to go is the front row view of the big R. RAD Did you climb the many routes on the horn of the Unicorn? Not quite sure what you mean. I chose a line climber's left of the rap line because it looked harder and more interesting- and we'd humped rock gear up there so by golly I was going to use it. It was still only a few moves of 5.6 or so protected by a couple of nuts. I'd agree that the rap route is probably low 5th class and could be easily soloed by a competent party, though a fall wouldn't be pretty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 You might emphasize to your sport partners that the 'rock climbing' on this hike is short, very easy, and uninteresting. At least that was my impression of the uphill lines. Combine with Castle and Pinnacle for a nice x-country outing. The real reason to go is the front row view of the big R. RAD Did you climb the many routes on the horn of the Unicorn? Not quite sure what you mean. I chose a line climber's left of the rap line because it looked harder and more interesting- and we'd humped rock gear up there so by golly I was going to use it. It was still only a few moves of 5.6 or so protected by a couple of nuts. I'd agree that the rap route is probably low 5th class and could be easily soloed by a competent party, though a fall wouldn't be pretty. Sorry Rad I must have misunderstood you I thought you did it without gear, I did it years ago and Becky’s guide book has unicorn listed as 3rd class or the harder routes as 4th class, I did it in Tevas as at the time I was doing most scrambles so I thought it was fun and sporting, I only downclimbed the se route, maybe that’s the rap route that you are referring to, I still have only a 15 year old Becky guide, is there more recent updated beta? I thought the scramble of the se open book of the castle was much harder and a spooky downclimb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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