ivan Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Trip: Der Dread BeaconWand - Old Skewl North Face "Railroader's D-light" Route Date: 6/22/2009 Trip Report: the first rosy tinges of the dawn of the summer of 2009 - child in my bed at 2 am - complaints of taking up "his room" ensue - pestered w/ personal dreams of glory before 6, sleepless, i'm raging off the cot early - formalities at school observed - freedom!!!!! the irascible kenny at the washougal burger king - chicken biscuit bitch! the fun drive in too slimy for the n side after days of rain? time will tell. chilling at the base in the muck - ghetto blasting w/ the new stereophonic funkytown setup, a sweet inspiration from corvallisclimber (nothing like leading w/ a boombox blowing on your hip!) i don't think the original oldtimers from the railroads in the wild n' heady days of the cleveland administration (first or second, who fucking keeps track of such things?) did the same first 2 pitches as us, but they likely were more sedate and staid about the affair - we had similar compunctions about frenching, foot-fucked in the moss i have zero doubt kenny at the anchor atop pitch 1, from the view looking down at the top of 2 - would be beacon rock boulderers, there's your bullshit down there! kenny at the top of pitch 3, finger on the 3rd to the last of the 19th century via ferrata rods the fa'ers put in back in covered-wagon-fuck-your-mama-in-the-futtock-shroud days the top of the pitch above the rancho relaxo (a fine place to call a fire mission in on the ranger station, fwiw) - this pitch starts in poison oak and pushes through surprisingly terrifying mud slathered blocks and dirt steps - this image shot from the mega-comfy, designed by the baby-jesus sweet ledge above and beside the rap tree, perfect for shoulder-belaying your 17-stone companion any day (my favorite anchor - a biner through an 8-on-a-bight on the fixed line above & a daisy chain round a sapling - SERENE approved!) is it me or does kenny look like a fawking flesh-swilling zombie here? the last pitch to the summit makes me want to lobotomize meself each time i think of it - wandering right then left over stacks of gaint overhanging shitty blocks - poison oak everywhere - poison oak in my eye ball - on the rope - harshing on my fucking mellow! on the summit ridge i tooled by the trail, smoking and taking in the lovely ambiance of a weed-wacker and a snowblower rainign filth upon the tourists - rod serling slumbered serenely to the north prior to scaring hte tourons, we marched down the top of the north buttress to inspect ole'larry's tomfoolish first rap anchor - jesus fuck - filthy latinos! didn't seem to faze kenny... hard to complain about any day you rock-clamber to the zenith of the bacon-wand! Gear Notes: a late 19th century combination of sport and via ferrate - a dozen slings, a yellow alien to 3 inch cam rack and a couple nuts Approach Notes: through the spooky forest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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