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sweaver

[TR] Rainier - Liberty Ridge 6/16/2009

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Trip: Rainier - Liberty Ridge

 

Date: 6/16/2009

 

Trip Report:

Only access to Lib ridge is via R side w/a short climb over schrund. Major rockfall mid-day forced us off snow and onto terrible choss. Rec early or late ascent as choss option sucks and snow slope a bowling alley. Go left above thumb rock. Center option gone, R too broken. Cross to L of ridge too early and you'll cliff out. Stay R on snow and climb to base of Pyramid and then L on snow. Firm snow/ice to ridge. Schrund will pass R or L. We climbed 20ft vertical pitch at R with good ice. Mostly ice at 55-60degrees above schrund to Lib Cap. We descended to Muir to visit friends..Cleaver in miserable shape. Recommend Emmonds descent. Simul-climbed whole route. Screws helpful for schrund crossing and for simulclimb of ice past pyramid and agove schrund.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Approach Notes:

Approach via White River is fast and easy. Winthrop in good shape with easily avoided crevasses. We roped on Carbon. Lower portion still in good shape, more bridges as you ascend with moderate route finding.

Edited by sweaver

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Any thoughts on being up there the week of the 29th of June. Does anyone think it will be "too late".

 

Thanks,

 

 

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The approach and the upper half of the route will be just fine. The only problem area will be accessing the ridge itself. There was some major rockfall when we ascended the ridge later in the day and we had to get off the snow and ascend terribly loose rock. Although it adds another day to the trip I'd recommend climbing to thumb rock early in the morning when things are colder and hopefully frozen. The Carbon is in decent shape and you could camp either on Curtis Ridge or on the upper portion of the Carbon to have quick access to the ridge in the morning. Enjoy.

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