PLC Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I'm going to climb Forbidden on Friday, and I'm wondering about footwear... does anyone know how much snow is left in the basin? How's the couloir look? I'd like to wear trail runners with aluminium crampons, but I don't want to have to bail if the couloir requires climbing boots. I'm also hoping to just use my bivy sack, but if there's still a ton of snow, I'll bring a tent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock-ice Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 My input, which is worth what you paid for it, is that there is still considerable amounts of snow up there. On the Eldorado approach we hit snow a week ago monday at about 5,000ft. I was glad to be in my mountaineering boots, but I wasn't doing any fifth class climbing either... Sorry if that is not much help. Have fun and post a tr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 If you need to bring heavy boots for the gulley, consider descending the w ridge which will allow you to stash the boots at the ridge. The one time I was there, it seemed reasonable to descend the ridge and gulley. We rapped off moat bollards for the gulley. Just a thought. I have never gone down the e ledges descent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Bring a tent and wear boots. Then, you can tell us if you needed to or not after you successfully summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 i climbed the west ridge with heavy duty backpacking boots... its no big deal, i would recommend them. if you really don't want boots i recommend climbing the 4th class face to the left of the gully. its dirty and a little loose, but super quick for ascent and descent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLC Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 I bailed on Boston Basin due to the weather forecast and climbed at Washington Pass, instead. So, no updated on snow levels from me... However, if anyone is headed to climb Liberty Bell, the trail has been destroyed by a massive avalanche. When you come to the the debris, don't try to cross it - just head straight uphill through the trees to the left of the avalanche path. You'll come across the trail again in just a few minutes: the avalanche hit the trail right at a big switchback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blake_taruscio Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 i did the west ridge saturday. trail runners and light crampons will work, i didnt even take crampons or an ice axe. we took the gully to the west of the couloir to the ridge notch. the couloir is pretty well melted out. there is good rap stations down the gully too. look for my TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 i did the west ridge saturday. trail runners and light crampons will work, i didnt even take crampons or an ice axe. we took the gully to the west of the couloir to the ridge notch. the couloir is pretty well melted out. there is good rap stations down the gully too. look for my TR. would it be feasible car-to-car with a predawn start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wastral Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Sure, That is the way I did Forbidden the first time. Took the 4th class gully to the west of the main normal 1st ascent gulley. Once you get out of that west gulley its easy 3rd class terrain to the ridge then 4th on the ridge with a couple moves of low fifth on the upper ridge itself. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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