billcoe Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Insert gratuitous backclipping pic found on internet here: Anyone ever seen a draw ever unclip? Was it "backclipped". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Although I learned a lot about poodle shaving from your image, this might be a little more helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 The older you get the more the hair migrates from the scalp down the neck to the back and requires clipping... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 While I wouldn't want to field test it, does anyone know of someone who had the rope come out of a biner as a result of backclipping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dom Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Yep Justin Sjong's wife took a huge wipper off of Chronic a couple of years ago after she backclipped, she knew she had backclipped so screamed while she was falling. It was pretty scary to watch, I thought a bolt had popped at first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Roger that. While we're at it, z-clipping has made a come-back with all the over-bolted sport climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) I've never bought into the quick draw revolution. Those things are short and rigid and led to the issue of backclipping. Since I primarily lead trad, I carry alpine slings only. When I am sport climbing, I triple up my alpine slings. It makes for a more flexible "quick draw" that is less prone to a "back clip" situation because it is not rigid. I also don't buy bent gate biniers, and I've stopped buying wire gates (wired nuts are prone to falling off wire gates do to the equal mass of the two wires). This is just my opinion, has not been tested, but it makes sense for a number of reasons to my simple mind. That said, I do pay careful attention to how my gates are pointed related to the direction of the rope travel as I move past them up the cliff. I try to keep the rope away from the gate. I also have stopped buying shoestring alpine slings. Those things tangle in a heartbeat. 9/16" sewn webbing is half the price and lasts twice as long...and it comes in colors! Edited June 16, 2009 by markwebster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I've never bought into the quick draw revolution. Those things are short and rigid and led to the issue of backclipping. Since I primarily lead trad, I carry alpine slings only. When I am sport climbing, I triple up my alpine slings. It makes for a more flexible "quick draw" that is less prone to a "back clip" situation because it is not rigid. I also don't buy bent gate biniers, and I've stopped buying wire gates (wired nuts are prone to falling off wire gates do to the equal mass of the two wires). This is just my opinion, has not been tested, but it makes sense for a number of reasons to my simple mind. That said, I do pay careful attention to how my gates are pointed related to the direction of the rope travel as I move past them up the cliff. I try to keep the rope away from the gate. I also have stopped buying shoestring alpine slings. Those things tangle in a heartbeat. 9/16" sewn webbing is half the price and lasts twice as long...and it comes in colors! WTF are you talking about? Wire nuts are prone to falling off of wire gates?? quit smokin' crack and climb it instead... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 RuMR wasn't the only one scratching his head at that comment. Mass has nothing to do (or is it due) with it. Wired stoppers on the rack can work their way off of wired carabiners, but I've never seen it happen in a placement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 i love pseudo-physics.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hafilax Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I've never bought into the quick draw revolution. Those things are short and rigid and led to the issue of backclipping. Since I primarily lead trad, I carry alpine slings only. When I am sport climbing, I triple up my alpine slings. It makes for a more flexible "quick draw" that is less prone to a "back clip" situation because it is not rigid. I also don't buy bent gate biniers, and I've stopped buying wire gates (wired nuts are prone to falling off wire gates do to the equal mass of the two wires). This is just my opinion, has not been tested, but it makes sense for a number of reasons to my simple mind. That said, I do pay careful attention to how my gates are pointed related to the direction of the rope travel as I move past them up the cliff. I try to keep the rope away from the gate. I also have stopped buying shoestring alpine slings. Those things tangle in a heartbeat. 9/16" sewn webbing is half the price and lasts twice as long...and it comes in colors! You'd better update your signature; I think you're regressing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) I have witnessed a backclip unclipping- it is scary and a real danger for sport climbers. Of course Raindawg and pope and others have their own solution: don't clip bolts! But trad has its own dangers... It is all "good" as long as we all practice due diligence in the part of climbing we like best. The best backclip is the one having the most fun, right Gspotter? And BTW, the hair doesn't go all the way to the back first but pauses to make a deposit in ears and nostrils. Edited June 16, 2009 by matt_warfield Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I came out of the womb with a gnarly thatch on my back. I must be a sport climber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdDog Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 The older you get the more the hair migrates from the scalp down the neck to the back and requires clipping... Like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backclipped Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 This coming December will mark the 10 year anniversary of my undergraduate (only graduate) achievement. I could have been somebody, ya know, like some big time war correspondent watching the capital city of the Tuskan Warriors light up like Atari's Missle Command. Instead I carried my bong and my snowboard to the Green Mountains of VT and began what my Mother would call "the backclipping of my life"--if she had a working knowledge of a climber's lexicon. This confessional has been brought to you by a brief lunch reprieve from tuning skis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 the wire gates/wired stopper situation I was referring to was when you are desperately trying to grab the binier off your rack that has a bunch of wired stoppers on it. You are trying to get it off the rack so you can experiment with different stoppers in the crack. Because you racked 5 wired stoppers on a wire gate binier, as you rotate the binier around, the mass of the wires on the wired stoppers is approximately equal to the mass and resistance of the springy gate. I've dropped stoppers this way. They simply fall off the wired gate binier. I was not referring to whether wire gates are good or bad in general use, just in racking nuts. I now always rack on solid gate keylock carabiniers. But thank you for suggesting I smoke crack. I need a new vice and haven't tried that one yet. I'm going to miss this board. Perhaps I can log in from the cafeteria in Yosemite :-) Don't want to miss any abuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Because you racked 5 wired stoppers on a wire gate binier, as you rotate the binier around, the mass of the wires on the wired stoppers is approximately equal to the mass and resistance of the springy gate. I've dropped stoppers this way. They simply fall off the wired gate binier. RACKING - UR DOIN IT WRONG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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