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jshamster

Kautz conditions 6/7/09

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Climbed the Kautz over the weekend.

Route is in excellent condition. Approx. 120 meters of 65 degree ice at 12K.

Approach is pretty chill. DO NOT use the Fan approach. Scary amount of rockfall coming down that bitch. Nisqually and Wilson glaciers are still in great shape. We bivied pretty low at 9400', Wilson Beach. Running water here, but I would boil/filter. Please camp on snow, and use dry land for lounging/bouldering only.

 

Cheers.

Jimbo

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Good news! Is the Wilson Beach bivi the one just below the Turtle? What's this talk of a rap from Camp Hazard down to the Kautz? Anchors? In years past it was just a scramble......I have a couple buddies heading up 6/13 so was wondering. Thanks Jimbo.

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Yep. Wilson Beach is below Turtle.

No rap. Hand lines in place for the scramble. Nice to have a prussik on there as the corner is awkward with a pack on. Pretty simple.

 

Cheers.

Jimbo

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Heard from my buddies who summitted today. (Love the cell service up there). They solo'd the ice pitches on the Kautz cuz it was too soft for screws. Bluebird day with a sea of clouds below, water at "Wilson Beach" as mentioned prev. One day of rest and then they're off to hit Stuart. Damn to be in my 20's again..........

Oh yeah they agreed with Jimbo's assessment of the "Fan" or Hourglass, they said it looked horrible up there, stay on the west edge of the Wilson.

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