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Beta on Mt. Baker North Ridge route


vaibhavb

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Pack light and bivy on the ridge itself. A little bit below the serac band is a flat place to bivy on. In august, there are rock walls around a nice dirt patch with room for a 3 person tent if you wanted to haul that up there. Bivy sacks are fine or just sleeping bags. One day in and up to the bivy so you can negotiate the heavily crevassed glacier in the daylight. Then a early start on the technical parts the next day and out. A really good 2 day schedule if the packs are relatively light.

 

And yeah, the single half rope is good and if the thickness bothers you for the steep parts. Tie in the middle and use both strands for 30 meters pitches.

 

enjoy! I really like that route.

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So how how far is the road closure from the trailhead? I've heard anywhere from 4-7 miles, quite a spread.

 

We are flying in from the East in September so bringing our bikes is out. I was thinking of 'borrowing' a shopping cart on the way out there!

 

How classy would that be? Starting a climb with all of your gear in a shopping cart!

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I usually try to grab one of those electric scooters from Wal Mart. If you get one from the back of the line with a full charge you should be good to go for the Baker road approach. Go light or you're milage will suffer.

Good luck.

 

Haha, I had always pondered the idea of riding one of those scooters to a trailhead...

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Yeah, traversing the Coleman might be an issue. Looks like it gets done with some regularity at that time of year. I recall hearing about parties traversing below the glacier to gain the North ridge as well. We have some time, so hopefully it won't come down to navigating a crevasse maze in total darkenss.... I hear its also a low snow year.

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