Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
psychobikere

Jefferson Conditions

Recommended Posts

A few of us are planning on attempting the Jeff Park Glacier route this weekend for the first time, and I'm wondering if anyone has been up it recently. Any idea how far up 2243 is driveable? What the glacier and ridge are looking like? Any info is much appreciated. Thanks!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Psychobikere:

I hiked up the West Rib from Pamelia Lake via the Milk Creek "snowfinger" last Monday May 25-26 and camped about 8k. Didn't go for the summit as I was solo. The Pinnacle appeared to be completely rimed over. Talked with a group that turned around at Red Saddle (via SW Ridge via Pamelia) due to the rime (and deciding to forego the Traverse). I'd love to hear about your trip...good luck. Maybe the Pinnacle will be doable for you...Check with the Detroit Ranger Station for the latest road conditions. I did not encounter snow until Pamelia Lake itself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good easy fun climbing w/o snow. (The pinnacle).

 

The summit was rime 9 days ago when I was pokin around Milk Creek. Big difference between the summit being snow or being rime.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went up on Saturday (6/6) from Pamelia Lake. Went up next to the SW Ridge. Skied from around 9,700 ft, so I didn't summit. But here are some photos from my trip:

 

Above the clouds:

View_from_SW.JPG

 

From my high point:

Summit_close_up.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cool.

 

anybody know if the crevasses on the Jefferson Park glacier have opened up?

 

We hope to ski it this weekend.

Edited by astrov

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

we ended up bagging our trip on account of a bad forecast. looks like that was the wrooong call, judging from JoeMack's photos. I headed up to the sun in WA though and discovered the heavenly place that is the alpine lakes wilderness....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone comment on the current conditions of the traverse and/or the trail into the south lakes (Mud, etc)?

 

thanks!

 

 

 

Edited by tracy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

trail from pamelia up to hunts cove and then up the short 'climbers trail' up towards mud lake is pretty straight forward.

 

main points, when the trail from pamelia lake hits hunts creek, which is very flooded, just go straight across--then snow started up just short of hunts cove and was pretty continuous. Hunts lake is 85% melted out? Up above where the PCT is, is still all snow and the lakes up there are not melted at all. Camped there (shale or mudhole lake..). We were going to go up to scope the summit area for a future attempt but it was so foggy we didn't bother really. Looks like we could have had luck if we went up to 9k or so..might have been above the clouds but hard to tell that if you are in them.

 

someone posted on here who is doing a fullon oregon peaks vacation this week and are planning on doing jeffers on friday. i am hoping to hear some info from them about conditions higher up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

someone posted on here who is doing a fullon oregon peaks vacation this week and are planning on doing jeffers on friday. i am hoping to hear some info from them about conditions higher up.

 

I just climbed Jefferson on Thursday with Miguel Forjan, who may be the guy you're referring to (I think he posted on here looking for partners for some peaks). We roped up for the traverse; the snow was icy in a few patches (especially towards the north side of the pinnacle), and we both used (and were glad we brought) a second tool besides our ice axes. The summit pinnacle itself was snow-free (and is a pretty easy scramble IMO).

 

Another party had been up there not long before us (we saw glissade tracks/boot prints on the SW Ridge/Slopes, and they'd signed in the register a day or two before us), but we guessed they'd climbed the 5.6 side of the pinnacle, because we didn't see any sign of recent travel in the traverse.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

anyone have their 2cents to throw at a jeffers attempt this weekend?

 

with the 2-3 inches of snow from the past weekend and a week of sun, I'm wondering if it will be some hellish ice-glazed scree at the upper reaches, and an icy summit block. My expectations right now are that we'd get to the red saddle and probably want to turn around cause the traverse will not be neither dry or snowy enough. thoughts?

 

open to other recommendations in ~3 drive of pdx that offers a similar challenge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ice-spelunking on the elliot is a popular past time this time of year and the road's open now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bump - anyone's feedback about snow levels/jefferson attempt this weekend? i know crumbly old things outside of a solid snow pack aren't too high on most people's list here.. but i'd take anyone else's 2cents

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wait for a few more storm cycles and the hill should be nice and solid.

 

and those crumbly choss piles are definitely on this guys list too. good luck, have fun and climb safe. (also post photos!!)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone have an opinion on the quickest way to the shale-lakes/south ridge area? Woodpecker hill TH to PCT and down to shale lakes? or Pamelia TH to Hunts Cove, up the 'climbers' trail by Hunts Lake to shale.

 

The Woodpecker route gives me 7.5miles by my map. Pam to hunts gives 6.8 -- but I've done the Pam to Hunts and theres a fair amount of overgrown--wondering if the PCT would be faster even if its a bit longer.

 

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anyone have an opinion on the quickest way to the shale-lakes/south ridge area?

 

I think it's a push either way. I don't mind the bushwhack too bad and I like the Pamelia Lake trail. I also usually go earlier in the season when crossing Milk Creek on the PCT is an issue, but that likely won't be a concern for you.

 

Have fun and post a TR when you get back, I'd love to see what the condition are.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×