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Jefferson Conditions


psychobikere

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A few of us are planning on attempting the Jeff Park Glacier route this weekend for the first time, and I'm wondering if anyone has been up it recently. Any idea how far up 2243 is driveable? What the glacier and ridge are looking like? Any info is much appreciated. Thanks!

 

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Psychobikere:

I hiked up the West Rib from Pamelia Lake via the Milk Creek "snowfinger" last Monday May 25-26 and camped about 8k. Didn't go for the summit as I was solo. The Pinnacle appeared to be completely rimed over. Talked with a group that turned around at Red Saddle (via SW Ridge via Pamelia) due to the rime (and deciding to forego the Traverse). I'd love to hear about your trip...good luck. Maybe the Pinnacle will be doable for you...Check with the Detroit Ranger Station for the latest road conditions. I did not encounter snow until Pamelia Lake itself.

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trail from pamelia up to hunts cove and then up the short 'climbers trail' up towards mud lake is pretty straight forward.

 

main points, when the trail from pamelia lake hits hunts creek, which is very flooded, just go straight across--then snow started up just short of hunts cove and was pretty continuous. Hunts lake is 85% melted out? Up above where the PCT is, is still all snow and the lakes up there are not melted at all. Camped there (shale or mudhole lake..). We were going to go up to scope the summit area for a future attempt but it was so foggy we didn't bother really. Looks like we could have had luck if we went up to 9k or so..might have been above the clouds but hard to tell that if you are in them.

 

someone posted on here who is doing a fullon oregon peaks vacation this week and are planning on doing jeffers on friday. i am hoping to hear some info from them about conditions higher up.

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someone posted on here who is doing a fullon oregon peaks vacation this week and are planning on doing jeffers on friday. i am hoping to hear some info from them about conditions higher up.

 

I just climbed Jefferson on Thursday with Miguel Forjan, who may be the guy you're referring to (I think he posted on here looking for partners for some peaks). We roped up for the traverse; the snow was icy in a few patches (especially towards the north side of the pinnacle), and we both used (and were glad we brought) a second tool besides our ice axes. The summit pinnacle itself was snow-free (and is a pretty easy scramble IMO).

 

Another party had been up there not long before us (we saw glissade tracks/boot prints on the SW Ridge/Slopes, and they'd signed in the register a day or two before us), but we guessed they'd climbed the 5.6 side of the pinnacle, because we didn't see any sign of recent travel in the traverse.

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  • 3 months later...

anyone have their 2cents to throw at a jeffers attempt this weekend?

 

with the 2-3 inches of snow from the past weekend and a week of sun, I'm wondering if it will be some hellish ice-glazed scree at the upper reaches, and an icy summit block. My expectations right now are that we'd get to the red saddle and probably want to turn around cause the traverse will not be neither dry or snowy enough. thoughts?

 

open to other recommendations in ~3 drive of pdx that offers a similar challenge

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Anyone have an opinion on the quickest way to the shale-lakes/south ridge area? Woodpecker hill TH to PCT and down to shale lakes? or Pamelia TH to Hunts Cove, up the 'climbers' trail by Hunts Lake to shale.

 

The Woodpecker route gives me 7.5miles by my map. Pam to hunts gives 6.8 -- but I've done the Pam to Hunts and theres a fair amount of overgrown--wondering if the PCT would be faster even if its a bit longer.

 

thanks

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Anyone have an opinion on the quickest way to the shale-lakes/south ridge area?

 

I think it's a push either way. I don't mind the bushwhack too bad and I like the Pamelia Lake trail. I also usually go earlier in the season when crossing Milk Creek on the PCT is an issue, but that likely won't be a concern for you.

 

Have fun and post a TR when you get back, I'd love to see what the condition are.

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