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Whats your opinion of the sport grades at Exit 38?


BenWA

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...compared to other climbing areas around the country?

 

Do you think the grades (in general) are soft? Sandbag? Just about right?

 

I haven't climbed at many other places so I'm just curious about what the general consensus is, or if there even is a consensus.

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exceptions would be the cave and select routes at amazonia and nevermind.

 

That's sort or what I was thinking [hoping]. I would hope at least that most of the .11's and .12's at nevermind and amazonia are pretty legit...??

 

I definitely have climbed some routes that were laughably overgraded (like the mossy .10d at amazonia's right side which felt more like 5.9).

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Ego boosting, but not in all cases.

 

For example, Negatherion, Overture, Architect Rally, and Primus all felt comparable to easy 11s at x32 and Index sport routes in the Country. Comparing sport to trad ratings is useless IMHO.

Edited by Rad
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Soft if you're hard core like me. But if you put on a few pounds and need an ego stroke cuz you're feeling like the climbing gods are frowning on you, I'd say it's solid.

 

So... Ellie's Sweet Kiss is great for the stroking. Anyone know what the tiny little roof is just below the deck from Ellie?

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I agree with Rad, you'll have more fun. Besides, sometimes my ego likes to be stroked, especially after it gets spanked on some 5.7 crack at Leavenworth. Ellies Sweet Kiss is a fun climb whatever the grade, and on a nice sunny day so is the 2 pitch soft 10a slab around the corner. On the other hand, maybe it was the end of the day and I was spent, but I thought the 2 10a climbs down the hill from Ellies (girls rule?) were real 10a's. Different developers?

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Using Index as the standard (in WA) X38 is generally 2 grades off with some exceptions. (no disrespect to the original developers) The problem I have found is you need to grade any new routes consistent with the other routes in the same area to stay consistent.

 

BTW Ellies and girls rule were the same developer.

 

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I climb all over the place, in grades, not location. I can flash V5s and climb V8 boulders after a day of roped climbing. I have nearly 'soloed' 5.13a above a trapeze net (young blood in Squamish) and yet fell leading 'Apron Strings' a 10b the same day on my OS attempt. If I am climbing a 5.12 trad route and I am falling a lot I usually just pull on a peice of gear to get to the top.. unless its single pitch. Whatever, I dont care. I just enjoy myself...

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2137963;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

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