Argus Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 So are there anchors on Wet Dream? I never saw any when I rapped it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I don't think so. The nearest rap station I can remember is to the left about 50' from the ground. A couple bolts with some old tat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 no, we just used a directional from an anchor we built to the lower left of the rap anchors that appear to serve the climbs on that section of rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 i would like to replace that tat with chains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 All but the very lowest vegetables have been removed as of yesterday (wet dream) Â Joe on Magic Fern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Mark and I went down to Private Idaho yesterday afternoon with the attention of putting an anchor on Wet Dream. I rapelled down from the trees above, and lo and behold someone had already done the deed! Â Not having anything better to do, I gave the route a good scrubbing with a wire brush, and got some more dirt out of the crack. While I was doing this, along comes Argus below. Turns out the anchor was his handiwork. Meanwhile Mark removed the blackberries from the bottom of the crack. Â We then top roped the route and I found a loose piece of flake inside the pod near the top. This flake was right where you'd perhaps want to put some gear or maybe a jam, so I trundled it. There was a nice, solid hand crack behind it. Â I'm guessing the reason for the persistence of the loose rock is most people layback and run out this section anyway. We both thought that this route was a really fine one and very much in the style of the other route at Private Idaho, that is, hand to fist cracks. Â So go get on her! The route is both as clean and dry as you'll ever see it. Gear to 4", 25 meters, approximately. Â Bring the mosquito repellent. They are swarming thick right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Other easy/moderates there at the Private Idaho that are very much worth doing would include the second pitch of Curious Poses and Instanbul (which I remember being wider than a "handcrack" for me). Sure, a little dirtier than say Godzilla but certainly nothing to keep you away. I saw another thread/post somewhere recently about the K-Cliff -more quality pitches for the mortal whiners like myself! Mark led Istanbul on our visit last week. I couldn't think of the name then and you just reminded me. I just wanted to say that Istanbul looks a lot dirtier than it really is. The actual crack and foot placements are clean. Not to say that it wouldn't benefit from some scrubbing, but it is definitely clean enough to climb. [istanbul is the crack to the left of Battered Sandwich] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Going up to Look out point this afternoon.Any crag cleaner action up there today? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Any info on Tatoosh at the LTW? I "heard" it was clean and a good climb now, but the guide book says it's basically a belayer death route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Any info on Tatoosh at the LTW? I "heard" it was clean and a good climb now, but the guide book says it's basically a belayer death route. Â It got cleaned last year, I think by Chris Henson. Thanks to whomever it was! Â It is a good route, take lots of finger-sized gear - 5.10b. There are new anchors as well. Â It requires a 70m to TR though. A friend almost got really injured or worse on this route with a 60m rope. I think you could use the intermediate anchors on TF to get off with a 60m. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 hey brian or argos...anyone replace that tat with chains on the main rap for private idaho? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 I will be there on Saturday doing some work. I can fix it up then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Argus Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 hey brian or argos...anyone replace that tat with chains on the main rap for private idaho? Â At the top (2nd pitch) of Magic Fern?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 I cleaned "Index Air Force" 5.10a beside "Them" on the wall of 10,000 insects with Argus and BHerc yesterday. Â It's in good shape and a lot of fun, even in approach shoes. I will be coming back with an axe and a crowbar to remove the stump. Â Â Â I forgot to add chains to the rap station on PI. Next time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRock Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 My buddy and I went up to "Clay" a couple weeks ago and dug it back out. It's on the upper town wall just left of the Zipper. Â It's a really amazing climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
assmonkey Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I cleaned "Index Air Force" 5.10a beside "Them" on the wall of 10,000 insects with Argus and BHerc yesterday.  It's in good shape and a lot of fun, even in approach shoes. I will be coming back with an axe and a crowbar to remove the stump.    I forgot to add chains to the rap station on PI. Next time...  THANK YOU guys for cleaning these awesome routes. I'm keeping a sixer of schwag tall-boys for y'all in my trunk in the event I run into you guys.  I stumbled across IAF yesterday and took advantage of it's newly cleaned state. THANK YOU! This is a kick-ass route, with excellent protection at the crux. People should get on it!  Them rocks too, and it's got some shiny new (?) chains.  Also got over to Shady Lane a couple weekends ago and got on a couple of the newly cleaned routes over there. These are all quality routes, well worth the walk.  Many of these routes are also in the shade, something to think about on sunny hot days.  The more these routes get climbed, the cleaner they'll become!  - a s s m n k e y  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 You're welcome  I keep bumping in to people hiking a little to check out these climbs. It's encouraging.  Hey Porter - Can we add a sticky topic with just a list of recently cleaned routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 this thread is a sticky now. if you want to compile a straight up list in one post i'd be happy to sticky that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 K Cliff can use a little lovin' as well. Â On the far left, Daryl put up a nice gear route called Special K 5.8. There are chain anchors to the right of the single bolt at the top. The crack is clean but the slabs at the start are a little mossy. Â Dropping down from the chains is a gear/bolted route called Rise Pumpkin Rise 5.10a 5x and pro. to 3" . Check out the titanium glueins. The lower section could use a light brushing. These two routes are in the shade. Â On the far right is Go! 5.9 3x and pro to 2." Section between second and third bolts requires thin gear. Some might find protection difficult to obtain in this section. The vines are creeping back onto this route. Â Plenty of other routes in need in between. Â K Cliff is on the right of the Inner Wall area as your heading up to Toxic Shock. There's a side trail to Special K when you hit the boulders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 you all rock for cleaning up those routes! Â anyone know if Steel Pulse is clean? looks like it could be a fun route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Argus Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 My guess it would need a little work. I bet there is some lichen on it, but that comes off quite easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 To escape the Toxic Shock crowd yesterday, we scurried around the corner to "Happy Puppy" 5.9 and "Who Put the Purr in My Pussy" 5.8 and were well rewarded with two fun climbs. Â The chimney section of "Happy Puppy" was so sparkly clean! Must have been recently scrubbed? Thanks to whoever put in the hard work. The finish is dirty but don't let that stop you from checking out this fine line. Â "Who Put the Purr in My Pussy" was in decent shape. It looks dirtier than it really is. We didn't encounter any loose rock(the guidebook warns of loose flakes near the top). Both climbs share a rap station(slings w/biners around a tree). Â Anyone been on "Behind the Eightball" (200 ft past Toxic Shock")recently? From the ground, this one looked pretty grimy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Behind the Eightball was put up onsight without cleaning.It wasn't dirty then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Thanks for the background, Richard. The splitter section looked sweet(only saw cobwebs there), but the moss and plant debris around the base gave us some difficulty identifying the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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