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Cleaning at Index


fenderfour

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There is a route to the left of Magic Fern that is a LFC. I recall it is a 5.9. It's got salal and blackberries growing out of it. If it were cleaned, would it be any good?

 

I assume you're talking about Wet Dream. I cleaned this route 2 years ago only to find ferns and blackberries growing out of it 2 months later. I have never seen it dry, so it's probably not worth the effort. If it were clean and dry, it would be fun though.

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It's nice to see stewardship efforts at such a great area.

Don't just buy them a beer, go help them scrub!

Beer tastes great with a hint of moss and dirt in your mouth.

I reccomend the soft sided 6 pack cooler for all day freshness.

 

For those of you interested in Rewarding us.

 

Argus likes anything with alcohol.

Drep likes PBR.

FenderFour likes Tall boys of crappy beer.

 

Any donations will be gladdly accepted and can be left at the anchors on top of Hag Crag. I will probably be up at Hag Crag Monday morning, if anyone wants to join!

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On a related note, we watched a second on the lower town wall, upper right, pull a block off from on high and almost nail a party below them on Sunday afternoon. We had a good view of the whole thing from the RR tracks, could have been very ugly. Second fell and the block came with him, while he shit his pant no doubt. Looked like the leader below had to backtrack and check to see if his ropes got nailed. Not sure what climbs they were on but it happened right of the giant manky corner. Maybe Narrow Arrow and Bob and Doris?

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That was most likely us up on the quarry. We were a team of three and when my friend was seconding he pulled a huge block out that came very close to hitting me down below. We were all ok, but if you are doing any of the routes over the quarry, be careful, there is a lot of loose rock over there.

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I doubt there was anyone to our left, as the next routes over are the death chimneys (additionally we never saw or heard another person up there all day, however there were lots of people over by Thin fingers).

 

If there was someone there that we somehow didn't see, the rock fall was in no way intentional and we are sorry if it came close to you (I sure as hell didn't like it coming withing feet of me!)

 

 

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Anyone know if there's an on-line topo to Private Idaho. I couldn't find one on the Cummins site.

 

I was able to find all of the routes by glancing at mountain project. There is also a topo of the surrounding crags in relation to the town here.

 

'Magic Fern' is the first route you encounter along the trail, followed by 'Battered Sandwich', and then 'Senior Citizens in Space'. These three routes are within ~30 feet of each other. Apparently there is another 5.9 up the hill from Senior Citizens but we didn't check it out.

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My standard heavy duty dirt work kit looks like this:

Shemag scarf with safety glasses or ski goggles, lame second best: particle mask.

[img:left]http://www.shermansurvival.com/novedades07/varios/shemag.gif[/img] [img:center]http://cdn.dickblick.com/items/349/13/34913-1050-2ww-m.jpg[/img]

 

Thin crack tools: Drywall saw, Nut tool

[img:left]http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/284216_front200.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/gear/products/9/7729-medium_2023L.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

Hand and finger cracks, bolt replacement: Estwing 22oz pointed tip geology hammer

Rock-Hammer-Supreme-22-Pointed-Tip-Estwing.gif

 

Brushes: PLASTIC, not wooden, wire brushes w/ scraper:

 

Steel-Wire-Brush-ES6422-ES6414-.jpg

 

Wisk broom W/ chopped handle:

11971651.jpg

 

Large time dirt removal, death block removal& trail work king:Pulaski!

Hands down the best trail work tool ever! Distant second best, GI entrenching tool

[img:left]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21yX4Is5X6L._SL500_AA280_.jpg[/img]

3_Pc_Etool.jpg

 

Oh yeah, 10.5mm low strech(static) ropes, not your old worn out dynamic rope.

Get real!!! all day jugging and high angle work deserve proper, dedicated work ropes.

Do a good job and clean up your mess after you finish.

[img:left]http://www.karcherresidential.com/en/images/subpages/rushmore_bottom.jpg[/img]

 

 

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There is a route to the left of Magic Fern that is a LFC. I recall it is a 5.9. It's got salal and blackberries growing out of it. If it were cleaned, would it be any good?

 

I assume you're talking about Wet Dream. I cleaned this route 2 years ago only to find ferns and blackberries growing out of it 2 months later. I have never seen it dry, so it's probably not worth the effort. If it were clean and dry, it would be fun though.

 

My experience has been that if you clean a crack repeatedly a couple of times it tends to last. The blackberries and ferns eventually give up if they don't get a chance to grow leaves and feed their roots and the residual dirt and other stuff that begets more dirt and other stuff lessens with repeated cleaning.

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It is harder than 5.9 for the first two moves off the ground. I guess like at Joshua Tree, the start doesn't count against the rating. :P

 

I wouldn't go that far. Not like EB GB's with a 5.11+ start to a 5.10 climb with a rating of .10d.

 

If the start is harder than 5.9 its only 2 feet off the deck!

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Other easy/moderates there at the Private Idaho that are very much worth doing would include the second pitch of Curious Poses and Instanbul (which I remember being wider than a "handcrack" for me). Sure, a little dirtier than say Godzilla but certainly nothing to keep you away.

 

I saw another thread/post somewhere recently about the K-Cliff -more quality pitches for the mortal whiners like myself!

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There is a route to the left of Magic Fern that is a LFC. I recall it is a 5.9. It's got salal and blackberries growing out of it. If it were cleaned, would it be any good?

 

I assume you're talking about Wet Dream. I cleaned this route 2 years ago only to find ferns and blackberries growing out of it 2 months later. I have never seen it dry, so it's probably not worth the effort. If it were clean and dry, it would be fun though.

 

lol we saw this on the list of cleaned climbs and it had many large green things growing out of it. we thought maybe a practical joke was being played by putting it on the "cleaned" list? jerf ripped them all out and climbed it on TR. It was dry as of tonight! But then we are 28 days without rain (almost a record I believe) and of course it is going to rain any day...so it won't be dry for long. All the vegetation is gone from it except at the very bottom.

 

I'm thinking of dipping into CC.com funds and going up and replacing the webbing on the rap anchors (bolts) for that immediate crag with chains.

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