eldiente Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 (edited) Trip: Red Rocks - Epinephrine Date: 6/2/2009 Trip Report: Over Memorial Day weekend I made a quick 3 day trip to Red Rocks. Sort of strange as I've never been to Red Rocks this late in the year (HOT!) The main goal of the trip was the mega classic Epinephrine. My partner had read all about it and made it his life-long goal to get up this route. I had never been on it so this seemed like a fun outing for both of us.* (History. Actually I tried climbing this route four years ago with motomagik. We started late and I moved very slow through the chimneys. She had a really hard time of it and was brought to tears when she shredded every bit of skin off her back during the first chimney. We bailed there.) [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/medium/DSC03280.jpg[/img] We started hiking about 5:30AM and were tied in by 6:30. There was another party in front of us which would slow us down throughout the day. First few pitches went by quickly, on the second pitch there is a bit of run-out 5.8 slab and and again near the end of the long 3rd pitch. Nothing too wild, but heads-up. The 3rd pitch ends at the base of the 500 foot chimney that makes up the crux of the route. My partner was very nervous as he had never climbed an OW before, I was a bit nervous having climbed just a few pitches of OW in the last year. I elected to haul our water (almost two gallons!) through the chimneys on a 6mm tag line so that my partner could climb without the weight. I've read lots of horror stories about these chimney pitches, here is what I found. [img:center] http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/DSC03282.jpg[/img] Pitch 4 Chimney. (120 feet?) Mostly overlapping flake cracks that turns into pure chimney about 40 feet below the belay. Gear is a 2s, 3s, and maybe a spot for a #4. Use long slings down low and don't shove gear all the way back in as you'll never get it out (see stuck pro all over this pitch) Belay is right at bolts, easy to climb past if your not looking. Pitch 5 Chimney. (120 feet?) Very Sustained, but secure chimney. A bit physical as you'll make the same move over and over again. Pro here is a bit sparse, there are places for good pro but they are way in the back of the crack where you don't want to be. For my size (5'10") I had a perfect fit on the outside and felt secure. The #4 will get used on this pitch. Belay on bolts to right. Pitch 6 Chimney. (90 feet) This is probably the crux for most people. The party in front of us was suffering hard. At first the leader started yelling "I'm gona die, I'm gona die" while getting into the tight bulge. A few minutes later he switched to screaming "I'm going to puke!" as his whole body was shaking from the pump. I had a good laugh. My turn. I clipped a bolt just a few feet above the belay and moved into the chimney. The first 20+ feet above the bolt are mellow but then it gets tight, flared and slightly overhanging. I got into a insecure knee/back position and could slowly feel myself oozing out. I can see why that poor guy started talking to God, very insecure. I gave up on being graceful and did a body dyno to a perfect hand jam and let my feet cut lose. That was close. From there is is mellow cracks in faces to another bolt on the right. No wide gear is used on this pitch, one bolt (crux) and smaller gear in the cracks to the anchors. Moves are run-out above the bolt. Pitch 7 Chimney. (140 feet) Last chimney pitch is very airy and a bit overhanging. The key here is to go right side in and face climb the inside of the chimney with your back against the other wall. Sort of like a .12 face climb except there is a place to lean your back against. The crux of this pitch is mental, looking up at it from the belay it isn't obvious where the pro is. After the first two bolts there isn't any obvious gear. After a bunch of airy moves there is a little flake that takes cams right where I was starting to get worried. From that flake is more of the same on a long run-out to the anchors. No wide gear for this pitch, 2 bolts for pro and small cams for the flake. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/medium/DSC03288.jpg[/img] Rest of the pitches. (7-13) After the chimneys it is just endless .8 and .9 pitches of crack and face in a very airy position. I was shocked, having climbed many routes at RR, I was expecting these pitches to be over-hyped. They're every bit as good as people say and some of the best moderate climbing I've ever done. Highlight for me was linking 3 pitches (5.8ish or5.9) into one off the Elephants Trunk. 270+ feet of steep climbing. (I made my partner simul climb to link this together) The top out is about 500 vertical feet of 4th low 5th class to the summit. We simul-climbed to the tree summit, some folks might just un-rope for this. Car to car was about 14 hours for us, I thought this was a decent pace considering my partner had never done any multi pitch and that I hauled a ton of water up this thing. As an added plus, I got to lead the entire route. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/medium/DSC03294.jpg[/img] Descent Beta. Easy. How do people get lost on this? On the summit block look South and walk to the top of the ridge behind you before going down. Follow the ridge a very long way before turning left and going down toward your car. There is huge Cairns the whole way down. Don't be tempted to go down early into no mans land. Gear. Double Set of cams from Yellow Alien to #2 BD. Triple #3s and 2x #4s. One Green Alien to protect roof moves on pitch 13. I'd only bring one #4 next time an double #3s. The #4 will be useful, no need for anything larger. Route is mostly in the shade in May but still hot. Travel as light as possible as you can't wear a pack in the chimney pitches. Rest of trip. Sport climbing in the Black Corridor. Trying not to get cooked. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/medium/DSC03321.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs098.snc1/4734_111222016012_605271012_3181412_5516559_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/517/medium/DSC03354.jpg[/img] Edited June 3, 2009 by eldiente Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaugg Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Cool pictures of a great route. Note that it is illegal to guide with no permit in Red Rocks, and legally dangerous for you w/o insurance. You might want to avoid boasting about it while including pictures of yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadfanatic Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Nice TR! Another reason to go back! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Good going! Sounds like you had a lot of fun. My only comments would be about the chimneys and the last chimney pitch in particular. On that pitch you have the rightside-in, face-out part down, but then if you stay all the way out on the very outside edge it's more like 5.6-8 [airy] chimneying on good edges with a #3-4 Loweball crack that follows you along on the face just at your left side. In general, I'd say don't get sucked into those chimneys at any point - stay as far towards the outside whenever you can. If you're feeling squeezed and cramped you're probably too far in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 . Note that it is illegal to guide with no permit in Red Rocks, and legally dangerous for you w/o insurance. You might want to avoid boasting about it while including pictures of yourself. Good point. Fixed. Partner gave me a fruity mixed drink in exchange for leading all the pitches. Fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Great Trip report ! I would add that I think you could get screwed on the descent easy, and to look up Josephs great description on that. As the route is so f*ing long, lots of folks top out in the dark, dehydrated and exhausted, you'll want the descent hard wired in your brain in advance to increase your safety margin I would think. (think 14 hours and the guy in front saying: "I'm gong to puke"!!!! ) On this paragraph: Actually I tried climbing this route four years ago with motomagik. We started late and I moved very slow through the chimneys. She had a really hard time of it and was brought to tears when she shredded every bit of skin off her back during the first chimney. We bailed there.) The 2nd time I did this with Ujahn, he had a real sweet brand new Helly Hansen lightweight poly pro he'd bought for routes just like this. He noticed the next day that the back of it was shredded. I don't think of those chimneys as rough....but as his jacket demonstrates I must be wrong. Great pics as well!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 What was your car to car time? Jaime and I climbed it in 10 pitches just under 11 hours car to car in 2005. I thought I would add to the spray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 What was your car to car time? Jaime and I climbed it in 10 pitches just under 11 hours car to car in 2005. I thought I would add to the spray. Dude, that's weak......at least show up with some pictures....BTW must be you as Jamie is kick assed strong:-) - but as long as we're spraying.....we did it in much less than that and were stuck under some slower climbers that we were having to wait every pitch (as much as 20 min) for. Every single pitch. I think stan and steve did it in like 3-1/2 hours so I don't crow about our time and can't be talkin shit....at least around those guys...and Steve is my age so that's out of the excuse list too:-) jus' sayin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Who is talking shit. I list a stat and I am talking shit? BTW, Jaime and I hung out on top for a while. This is why trip reports need to be in spray. Because that is what they are. I love the pics......but it is spray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 I think Pink did it car to car in under 6 hours. Now that is flying..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 Jaime is strong, I'd think 10 hours car to car would be slow for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 Jaime is strong, I'd think 10 hours car to car would be slow for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Jaime is strong, I'd think 10 hours car to car would be slow for him. Must have been his partner LOL!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 i prefer doing it bar to bar.... just sayin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Jaime is strong, I'd think 10 hours car to car would be slow for him. Must have been his partner LOL!!! Hell yes.....if you have ever climbed with Jamie....you know he is not the slow one of the group. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 Going fast on this route is kind of silly, its so much nicer being in the shade all the way. A great way to spend a hot day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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