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[TR] Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, Ca - Whodunit 5/30/2009


catbirdseat

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Trip: Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, Ca - Whodunit

 

Date: 5/30/2009

 

Trip Report:

FA: Joe Fitschen and Royal Robbins September 1957, FFA: Tom Higgins and Bob Kamps 1966

Type: Trad

Consensus (Mountain Project): 5.9

Length: 8 pitches, 800 feet

 

This route is probably the single most popular route at Tahquitz Rock, so either get there early or be prepared to stand in line.

 

Ed Sefner and I had done a couple routes together last summer, including Sahara Terror and West Lark. We'd been planning to do Whodunit as soon as we had a good opportunity. Ed was dealing with back problems last year, but this year he's been doing a lot of swimming and is in good shape. Since he offered to lead the crux pitches, I couldn't refuse.

 

We drove out in my Honda Element after meeting up a the P&R in Orange. We arrived about 9 am and the lot at Humber Park was jammed with cars. We could already see climbers on Whodunit which faces directly towards the lot.

 

Taking his rack (supplemented with my microstoppers and small cams) and my rope we set off for the Lunch Rock trail, which we found in excellent repair, owing to a recent work party by ten local climbers (so I learned from SuperTopo.com).

 

We arrived at the base with climbers on the second pitch and two waiting to start. We weren't in a big hurry so we relaxed and watched the show. The follower of the first team was making a lot of noise. First there was a cam he couldn't clean and then he had trouble with the chimney.

 

The two climbers we spoke to were experienced. The guy who led the first pitch could climb 5.13 we were told, but actually had to put some thought into negotiating the first overlap.

 

Once they had started cleaning the second pitch we set out with Ed leading. When he got to the overlap he set a couple of the little Metolius brassies I'd given him. Later he said he couldn't have pulled it off without them. He used those a lot on this climb.

 

We put way to much crap in the pack I was wearing, a lot of which was water. In fact we shouldn't have brought a pack at all. I made it up the overlap without any slips, but it was exciting climbing. There always seems to be a little hold where you need it, if you look hard enough.

 

I lead the second pitch (5.7) which went smoothly to a small ledge below the chimney. Ed led the chimney without any problems. When it was my turn to follow, I wide stemmed my way up rather than use chimney technique because of the pack. The exit moves are probably the crux of this pitch. Stemming is the key.

 

The sky was clouding up as I led the 5.8 fourth pitch up an offwidth in a RFC. Because of numerous features it wasn't hard but I didn't get much protection but didn't really need it. The belay was the nicest on the route and we took a moment to eat and drink.

 

Setting off on the fifth pitch, Ed managed to kick me in the nose. He must have been tired cause he was sketching and making me really nervous. But he settled down and continued out of sight. Big, fat rain drops started to pat down here and there as I silently wished Ed would speed it up.

 

By the time I set off it was pouring down rain with a little hail mixed in. Having come this far we weren't turning back, so I gritted my teeth and climbed. BOOM!- a lightning strike on my right! Damn! Water was pouring down the rock and I was very unsure of my feet, so I probably yarded with my arms a lot more than necessary. I even moved a cam to A0 a move. BOOM! Another lightning strike, even closer. My climbing took on a desperate quality as I yelled, "keep me tight!"

 

Arriving at the belay. Ed didn't sound all that confident in his anchor which consisted of three micro stoppers, so I climbed up and beefed it up with a couple cams.

 

He pointed out a bolt on a roof to the left, and suggested that was the way. I tried aiding it but couldn't pull the roof. The wet lichen was just like Teflon. I finally backed off, and told Ed there had to be another way. There was, round to the right. There wasn't much pro, but there were good edges to pull on and after a short 5.8 section I was on easy ground and ran it out the entire rope length to the summit.

 

There, we met a couple of friendly locals with whom we chatted as the sun came out and we dried out. They had done Super Pooper, 5.10b, and were waiting for a couple of Brazilian friends who were behind us on Whodunit. Those guys ended up bailing in the rainstorm. We left an orange TCU on the 6th pitch. Ed was too cold and wet to want to dick with it, and I didn't blame him.

 

We all met up in the parking lot and had a beer together and shared a few stories as it grew dark. There was a soggy note from our friends at the FS because I hadn't shown the required Adventure Pass. First time they had nailed me in several visits.

 

Gear Notes:

We brought too many cams! You only need one set to 4", with a good selection down to the smallest sizes. This route takes nuts really well. Bring some RP's or brass micros stoppers.

 

Using a 60 meter rope, the route can be done in 6 pitches.

 

Approach Notes:

Can either take the talus slopes for the north side routes and go right, or take the Lunch Rock trail and go left. It's about the same time either way.

 

Whodunit is just right of center. Sahara Terror at Center.IMGP0002.JPG

Second Pitch.

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Third (or Chimney) Pitch.

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Ed after fourth pitch.

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Edited by catbirdseat
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What a great route!! My girlfriend and I did the route a few years ago when we were road tripping alot. I remember running the chimney pitch together with another pitch and having to do some long runouts because I had used up all my gear protecting those two pitches. Great fun! Hope to get back there someday. Luckily we had no weather issues except for a little snow at the base we had to traverse thru to get to the route. Thanks for bringing back fun memories. Oh yeah, a warning to anyone who climbs there, HANG YOUR PACKS! Or take them with you. The critters will chew thru just looking for food. Rick

Edited by Rick
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