Fuhrer Finger TR May 25-26

[marek]

Pics are here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/brsheh/2009052526MtRainier?authkey=Gv1sRgCP6bs-vAktW6NQ#

http://picasaweb.google.com/fieldsmr/Climbs20095Rainier?authkey=Gv1sRgCNeQr6eD0MajuAE&feat=email#

Mike (yesman on CC) Bob and me, we left Seattle at 8am and after “making friends” with MRNP rangers (particularly with one) we started sorting our gear. A quick look at the gear, then at the mountain, then again at the gear, proved to be decisive, we went down from 60m rope to short 30m one, then from tent to bivy, from 2 stoves to one, and so on until we were able to squeeze gear into our day packs. We weft Paradise at noon and geared with flotation devices known as snowshoes, for that reason we were not up to our balls in snow and we made quick progress. For now the route goes smack in the middle of Nisqually Glacier, but that will change as the glacier starts to break up; upper section has a split, you may go up and left under falling rocks, or to the right. The two releases of rocks the size of small refrigerators reassured us that taking the right side was better. Upon reaching the crest of the bulge, I felt the stump all way around me; I knew this slope could go at any moment, so I gingerly climbed up to the edge of crevasse and belayed the rest of the team. The upper section of Nisqually Glacier was easy, but super crevassed; it’s not going to last for a long time. Some 5hrs after we started, we settled in the picturesque camp on the ridge (9,300ft) overlooking Fuhrer Finger and Kautz Glacier. One interesting thing was that we were able to melt almost 15 quarts of H2O using only ONE bottle of fuel!!

Next day, after some needed rest, we got up at midnight and started to cross Wilson Glacier at 1:30am, reaching the base of FF at 2am. The way was super easy and yesterdays glop was frozen solid. We then figured the conditions were so very good, and since we most likely would not put pro, we decided to solo the couloir; the whole 2,000 feet of it! While we were climbing, there was no rock fall or signs of it, just intermittent steps at an angle of 40-45%. We topped out the gutter at 4:15am after what seemed to be a never ending snow slope.

Just as we were traversing onto Nisqually Glacier, the weather started to turn on us, with ever increasing winds and total whiteout, at which point we decided to wait it out to see how the weather turned, and so we could see more than the current 50 feet. Team work kicked in, with everyone adding new ideas; first I found a “nice” crevasse, then Mike came up with his sleeping bag so we could cover our legs, then some minutes later Bob broke the bank and we all ended up in our own sleeping bags boots to head! It was all nice and we even got some sleep; if I could just rip off a puffy off of one of my partners?! The “time out” was a good thing, for we got some rest, warmed up, and the fog was gone. As it turned out, the entrance to the glacier was very easy and in minutes we were trotting in the middle of it. As we gained altitude, encountering few crevasses and bridges, the weather got worst by the minutes; above 13,500ft, there were steady 40 miles+ winds and gusting to more than 60 miles, spindrifts a constant, with very low visibility. The going was slow, but we were making progress, edging our way up, now post holing constantly. At the time, we didn’t know where we were, but we knew the crater was our savior; not wanting to climb down the same way, we needed to find the start of DC route. Nearing the top, our faces were still blasted by the wind and snow, and our feet got cold, now at the end of the rope and without a down jacket, I was feeling the cold the most.

We topped out the crater rim some 100 yards from Columbia Crest (GPS) at 11am, and due to our poor state, we decided to find shelter. It went all “classic Rainier” instead cold bivy behind rocks; we found a passage into the crater, some 30-40 feet deep. There, we found quite livable chamber with warm air sipping through the rocks, and significant dump air. Inside, few minutes of digging wet dirt and rocks, had got us semi-useful benches for sleeping for now a second “time out” The 2 hrs of rest and warmth had given us time to focus and re-evaluate the situation, and we decided to look for a start of descent route, and if it didn’t work out, we were to return to the cave. At the time, I was quite confident I could find the way down, but Mike and Bob were uneasy about it; no guarantees though, despite my previous 16 summits. As it turned out, it took us just few minutes to find the well worn track and some wands below; we were going home!!!

The rest was a piece of cake navigating crevasses; DC looks good, and it still goes Ingraham Direct, but it will not last long, as there are few poor bridges and connections. There is a huge ice wall right above the top of DC, and it’s active! In all, a looong day!