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davidk

[TR] Eldorado - NW Couloir 5/25/2009

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The road is gated at the Eldorado TH because of a slide further up. If you are getting on Eldo this won't affect you...

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The road is clear to the Eldo parking lot, after that it washed out. Breaking the trip into 2 days, as we did Memorial Day wknd, is best. Bivy at the base of the E. Ridge route, that way it's only ~30 minutes to the base of the NW Couloir. Get up at 4am and you'll have plenty of time to complete the route in the shade.

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The road is clear to the Eldo parking lot, after that it washed out. Breaking the trip into 2 days, as we did Memorial Day wknd, is best. Bivy at the base of the E. Ridge route, that way it's only ~30 minutes to the base of the NW Couloir. Get up at 4am and you'll have plenty of time to complete the route in the shade.

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What about camping lower at 5,400 ft and then going really early on the 2nd day?

 

Tom,

 

That could work. If you camp at or near that ridge before you drop onto the glacier, you'd have (I presume) firm snow and easy travel up and over. Just get moving early, because like I said, the earlier you get into the couloir the better conditions you'll have the less crap will fall on you.

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We did it from a lower camp at 5,600 ft on 6/4/09. The route is probably done now, though. The lower ice pitch was total slush and falling down as we were climbing. It looked possible to get past it on some easy mixed terrain to the left. Comparing the photos from Sunday with how it looked today, I'd say it won't make it to the weekend.

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Hey Eiji,

There were only two teams on it, but about 100 people on the east ridge!

 

Busy on Eldorado!

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